“Flares, firecrackers, flags… everything you experience is something completely different to what you might be used to.”
A Journey Through Italy
There’s something about Italian football that draws people in. The history, the scandal, the nostalgia—it all plays a part.
For Lukas Williams and his friend Lars Roy, a trip across Italy to explore Serie A was more than just about watching games. It was a way of understanding the cities, their people, and the role football plays in everyday life.
Lukas describes his fascination with Serie A as something that developed early.
“From an early age, there was always an interest in world football—a childhood spent mispronouncing countries and teams, learning about obscure players and dreaming about exotic destinations that I couldn’t visit.
“Add to that those FIFA football games that hold such nostalgia for kids that grew up at that time—with Serie A close to the peak of its powers—along with glimpses of players through several World Cups and Football Italia.”
With that in mind, the pair set off on a journey through Milan, Rome, and Bologna, three cities that each bring something different to the landscape of Italian football.
Milan: A City of Contrasts
Milan has cosmopolitan grandeur—as if the Duomo was built to provide the backdrop for superstars and Scudetti.
There’s no escaping the duality of the city: fashion, finance, industry, and architecture sit alongside an intense football culture.
“It’s a city with a lot of layers, each from different periods,” Lukas explains. “Every district had something different to offer, and places like Parco Sempione, Navigli and Chinatown offset the stereotypes of business and industry.”
And, of course, there’s football. “You understand the significance of football through the conversations you have with the locals—only a few moments before a question of whether you’re Rossoneri or Nerazzurri.”
The San Siro is a stadium that needs no introduction. “As one of the most recognisable stadiums in the world, the Stadio Giuseppe Meazza is on every football fan’s bucket list—it’s a memorable experience.”
But what makes it special isn’t just the size or history, but the little details. “Despite being so iconic from a distance, it feels like it’s the details that really make it so great on a match day—eternal murals, Baretto 1957, signs still priced in Italian Lira—all reminders of its history.”
The timing of their trip was perfect. A Champions League night at the San Siro, with Inter playing some of their best football.
“We were lucky to have a match that had nearly everything—an early goal, a penalty, a red card, and a hat trick—each feeding into such a great atmosphere. Choosing to sit near the Inter ultras was a sensible choice.”
Rome: Where Past and Present Collide
There’s no shortage of clichés when it comes to describing Rome, but as Lukas puts it:
“The Eternal City has the romanticism that you have to see for yourself—especially to properly understand the scale of the city and each of its sights.”
Everywhere in Rome, the old and the new sit side by side. That includes football.
“There are subtle signs that it’s a football city without it being in your face—the mural to Francesco Totti as an example (…in the absence of any official statue).”
The Stadio Olimpico, home to both AS Roma and Lazio, is steeped in history. “The Stadio Olimpico is Rome’s modern Coliseum, and the Romanisti certainly help it feel that way.”
Getting to the ground is part of the experience. “The long approach to the stadium was a memorable one—stopping by each of the hole-in-the-wall bars, formations of thousands of Vespas leading the way, and each Piazza offering something different.”
Inside, the stadium holds a tension that’s unique to Rome. “When the football is on, the patches of darkness around the stadium and in each of the squares can make the Stadio Olimpico feel quite intimidating, along with the noise inside the ground. You could sense the tension between the fans and what was at stake on the night.”
Bologna: The Underrated Gem
After the intensity of Milan and Rome, Bologna was a change of pace. “Bologna is more laidback with an alternative eccentric side. It’s relatively compact as a city, yet has so much history.”
It’s a city that doesn’t scream football in the way that Milan or Rome might, but its connection to the game runs deep. “Stadio Renato Dall’Ara is a special ground, unlike many others, especially the modern stadiums that are being built today. It’s one that really links to the history and architecture of the city.”
Getting to the stadium was an experience in itself. “Walking down the Portico di San Luca and seeing the Renato Dall’Ara from on top of the hill was unforgettable. The site of the stadium, on the edge of the city, is quite a fitting metaphor.”
More than anywhere else, Bologna had that community feel. “Back-alley bars where locals were willing to chat and share stories. It felt like the kind of place where everyone knew each other.”
How Does It Compare to the UK?
Football culture in Italy is different. It’s more theatrical, more immersive. “Fans in Italy have different ways of expressing their support and showing their passion. Flares, firecrackers, flags… everything you experience is something completely different to what you might be used to.”
And then there are the pre-match rituals. “All the back-alley bars, enduring murals, pre-match rituals, each forming a thread in that wider identity and community.”
Standout Moments
For Lukas, there were plenty of highlights. “In terms of football, a Champions League night at the San Siro was a standout moment, with Inter playing some great football and Martinez grabbing a hat trick.”
Beyond the football, Rome’s atmosphere left a lasting impression. “The atmosphere and build-up to the Milano derby outside of the stadium was something special, and we soaked up the atmosphere with the Milan Ultras just prior to kick-off—which was an experience!
There was an electricity within the San Siro as the match began and an intense sense of passion around the ground.”
And then, of course, there was the food. “Bologna is one of the destinations to go for great food and drink, and inevitably you end up being drawn to the famous ragu sauce.”
Lessons from the Trip
So, what did the trip teach him about Italian football? “For all its (potential) faults, the passion will always be there.”
And if he had to choose one city to return to? “Bologna felt like it had more to offer in the Rossoblu wall and seemingly limitless options for food to discover. Roma as a two-club city, sharing a stadium, would be interesting to compare.”
Advice for Others
For those looking to experience Italian football culture, Lukas’s advice is simple: “Even though there are some standout places, every place has something to offer. Try to pair it up with other things that you want to experience. Wherever you end up, you’ll have an amazing experience.”
For Lukas and Lars, this trip was about more than football. It was about experiencing Italy through its stadiums, its food, and its people. And with so much more still to explore, there’s no doubt they’ll be back.
All our thanks to Lukas and Lars.
All images by Lukas and Lars, who you can both follow on Instagram.