THE CALCIO DIARIES PART TWO: LOMBARDIA A FASCINATING FEAST OF FOOTBALL

December 20, 2024

“Lombardia is the perfect setting for a weekend of calcio and culture and includes numerous other clubs we couldn’t visit on this particular occasion.”

PART TWO: LOMBARDIA

Intrepid football adventurer, storyteller, and connoisseur of culture, Joseph O’Sullivan brings his Calcio Diaries to life through a six-part podcast series and accompanying diary entries, where he delves into the soul of Italian calcio, exploring what makes the beautiful game a national obsession.

This is part two, and here we find Joseph discovering the beauty of Lombardia, as he travels through Bergamo, Como, Monza and Milan in search of everything that one of Italy’s most beguiling regions has to offer

HAVE A GELATO AND JUST LOOK EFFORTLESSLY COOL

Lombardia and of course the big and bold city of Milan, make for a fascinating feast of football, fashion and fine Italian cuisine. However, for this piece let’s step away from the Derby de la Madonnina frenzy and look to the outskirts of one of Europe’s most famous cities.

To the North, you can find yourself in Monza or Como very quickly, in fact, both are just a short and pleasant train ride away. Both are picturesque towns in their own ways, both are perhaps not what you might call traditional football hotspots and yet both seem set on planning their future within the top flight of Italian football.

In the likes of Monza and Como, you walk the streets and find little to no references to the football teams of the cities, definitely not in the centre anyway.

Large piazzas are reference points between walkways and these towns are spoiled rotten with stunning churches, secret gardens and romantic alleyways that could all be tourist attractions in their own right if Italy wasn’t so rich and abundant in magnificent places and attractions.

Monza and Como feel similarly wealthy and unmistakably North Italian. On a Sunday in Monza opera music plays in the park, and amongst the mansions of Lake Como well-dressed locals walk their dogs, peruse and sip wine, go window shopping, have a gelato and just look really effortlessly cool as fuck.

Yet, Como (in particular) on match day shows a city with a strong football culture and fanbase aside from the wealthy locals and tourism, even if a few of the willing faithful come not from the city but descend upon the lake from the nearby hills and towns.

THE BLACK AND BLUE IS EVERYWHERE IN BERGAMO

In Bergamo, about 50 minutes to the east of Milan, things are a little different once more. Despite the city being just as stunning a setting as the rest, it is plastered in references to its football team.

It’s tricky to cross the street without seeing another sticker honouring ‘La Dea;’ the Roman goddess that adorns the fabulously unique crest of Atalanta football club.

The black and blue is everywhere in Bergamo, and it is a superb place to visit. Even its walled old city is distinct from others as it raised high on a hill above the rest of the town, known as the ‘citta alta’ or high city in English.

Dander down from the Citta Alta after an afternoon apperetivo and you will find yourself on the way to the sparkling new Gewiss Stadium that is clearly visible from the hillside.

Parks and fields are dotted with some idyllic football pitches around this part of town; keep your eyes peeled for their beauty and grace.

Fine old bars hide in the nooks of this walled city that is busy by day and a lot quieter at night, and the Cattedrale di Sant’Alessandro in particular is a marvel for the eyes.

JUST A SET OF YOUNG LADS AND A VOLUNTEER FATHER WITH A DRUM

Back to Milan and lower league side, Alcione Milano is another world in more ways than one. I ventured to the home of another side, Pro Sesto, to watch third-division Alcione Milano take on sleeping giant Vicenza.

In the area, I was met by a multi-cultural community that felt very far from Il Duomo, refreshingly so too. It wasn’t a stunning part of town, but it was interesting and full of life.

I sought out some ceviche when I realised there was a legitimate local-run Peruvian restaurant in the neighbourhood. As ever – that didn’t disappoint and was a welcome break from the pasta and pizza.

I then found an old tabaccheria where I was overcharged for a beer so that my request to watch Liverpool Vs. Bournemouth be granted.

Perhaps that was fair enough given I was a bit out of town and the local old boys were trying to focus on their intense and seemingly quite well-organised games of poker in the same room. As soon as LFC finished the place started to fill up for Juventus Napoli, but I had third-division football to watch.

Vicenza scored a stunning free-kick and won the game 2-1, meanwhile, off the pitch the away team also won the singing contest. It wouldn’t be hard considering the home fans have no ultras at all, just a set of young lads and a volunteer father with a drum.

It was like something from a youth football match, and perhaps that is fitting as Alcione Milano is famous for their academy talent more than anything.

Those young lads that might be stars of the future were the very youngsters cheering on their first team that day. If they don’t make it to Serie A, or Serie C, then they have a bright future on the terraces.

WELL-DEFINED STORIES, STADIUMS AND STYLE

The Lombardia region is the perfect setting for a weekend of calcio and culture and includes numerous other clubs we couldn’t visit on this particular occasion.

Whether or not you manage a San Siro visit in the middle of said trip – there is plenty happening in this part of Italy and Milan is a great base to visit all of these other fantastic football teams and towns. Those which are all so close together in geography but have their own well-defined stories, stadiums and style.

Atalanta, and Bergamo, are a must, Como is a delightful lakeside football spectacle and the spectacular San Siro needs no further promotion or praise. Enjoy Lombardia, and let us know how it treats you. Ciao for now.