Football Culture in Japan
Sam Mcardle had planned to watch a game in Sendai. The draw? A stadium with steep, looming stands—something that felt distinctly European in an otherwise unfamiliar footballing landscape.
But with renovations underway and the team temporarily playing in a soulless, Olympic-style venue, he made a last-minute pivot. Tokyo Verdy, one of Japan’s most revered clubs, would be his new destination.
“It was also a three-and-a-half-hour journey to Sendai on the bullet train,” Sam says, “which really puts into perspective how massive Japan is.” With time in Tokyo limited, Verdy made sense. He even had a jacket from their inaugural J-League season—“so I figured I could dress to impress.”
Matchday, But Not As You Know It
A Tokyo Verdy matchday is unlike anything in Europe. The city’s sheer size and density mean most stadiums are well outside the centre. As a result, football culture has developed in a way that blends European-style fandom with American sports traditions.
“In Europe, the pubs and fan culture spill out into the streets around the stadium,” Sam explains. “But in Japan, everything happens within the stadium complex itself.”
The pre-match routine is closer to an organised festival than the chaotic pub-hopping many fans are used to.
One of the most surprising aspects? The food. “There were around 100 different food trucks, all serving incredible food. We’re not talking about a lukewarm pie here—it’s next-level cuisine.”
The emphasis on food extends into the stadium itself. Unlike in the UK, where strict rules separate concourse drinking from the stands, Japan takes a different approach.
“Once you’re inside, you can take your food and drinks, including beer, to your seat. People bring backpacks full of food—it’s like a picnic.
Can you imagine doing that in Britain? You’d immediately be suspected of something dodgy!”
Security, too, is remarkably relaxed. “There are barely any checks. They scan your ticket, bow to you—it feels more like checking into a hotel than entering a stadium.” There’s no heavy-handed policing, no simmering tension.
“It’s like American sports—people are there to enjoy the spectacle with their families.”
Passion Without Hostility
That’s not to say Japanese football lacks atmosphere. In fact, the ultra culture is deeply European in style.
“Massive flags, chants, ultra leaders on ladders with megaphones—it all fits.” But the energy is channelled differently.
“There’s no hatred or vitriol towards the opposition—it’s all about getting behind their own team.”
Even before kick-off, the difference is stark. “During my trip to Japan, I also took in Yokohama FC vs. Marinos, and the home fans applauded the opposition fans just for showing up. The announcer even said, ‘Please give a warm welcome to our guests, Gamba Osaka,’ and the crowd actually cheered them. It was surreal.”
As for the game itself? The noise is relentless. “Even if the stadium isn’t full, the fans that are there sing for the entire match.” And when a player misses a sitter? There’s no abuse, just encouragement.
“It’s a completely different mindset,” Sam says. “The sport itself almost feels secondary to the overall experience.
It’s like going to the theatre or a festival—you’ve paid for a good time, and you’re going to enjoy yourself no matter what.”
Football as a Social Gathering
The communal nature of Japanese football extends beyond the stands.
“At the Verdy game, I was in an unreserved section with the ultras, and I saw a mother wet a towel, put it over her baby’s head, and then start breastfeeding—right there in the stands.”
It reminded Sam of Argentina, where football is a family affair, passed down through generations.
“In Japan, it’s safe, it’s communal. Because people can bring food from home, it feels much more like a social gathering than just a football match.”
For all the familiar elements—chants, ultras, unreserved seating—football in Japan is its own thing entirely. Respect, hospitality, and a sense of togetherness shape the experience.
And for a travelling fan, it offers something rare: a glimpse of what football could be, if it weren’t so weighed down by decades of ingrained hostility and division.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE UTTERLY WONDERFUL SAM MCARDLE. YOU CAN FOLLOW ON INSTAGRAM HERE.
YOU CAN ALSO VISIT SOME OF SAM’S OTHER WORK HERE.