“I found myself climbing the fencing and perching atop—La Bombonera completed in style.”
Every Barrio has its own Slice of Life
For serial groundhopper and football photographer and connoisseur, Joey Corlett, a fascination with Argentina’s football culture began years before he ever stepped foot in Buenos Aires.
“Football culture had always been fascinating from afar,” he says, “but once you dive into it, you realise how interlaced fútbol is with everyday life in Argentina.”
What started with Copa90 documentaries and books like Tears at La Bombonera became something more tangible when a friend invited him to visit.
Throughout our time together, Joey reflects on adventures in Argentina with the detail of someone who didn’t just travel but paid attention. From local neighbourhood teams to packed stadiums, sticker-covered lampposts to smoky grills outside matches, his trip became a deeper look at how football shapes public life and personal identity in Buenos Aires.
“Every barrio has its own slice of life,” he says, “and each one tells a different story.”
He talks about first impressions of the city—“like everywhere you’ve been and nowhere you’ve been at the same time”, the way fans engage with the game, and the small details that make up the everyday: Fernet y Cola, bodegón dining, and the near-religious status of Dulce de Leche. I
It’s a portrait of a place told through the lens of football, but also of how a trip planned around football ends up revealing so much more.
More Than Just Boca and River
Monumentally huge, beautiful and wonderfully varied were my first impressions of Buenos Aires.
Taking a line from my friend and fellow football photographer, Sam McArdle (@stoppage_time_winner), who stated that:
‘Buenos Aires is like everywhere you’ve been and nowhere you’ve been at the same time.’
This resonated with me every day I was there. From different streets with ranging styles of architecture that stem from Italian, Spanish, French or English influences. To the sheer variety of food and languages you can encounter, you can feel the contrast of influences from around the world that make this fantastic place all underpinned with that Argentine passion
Before arriving, I expected the spotlight to be on the national team, Boca Juniors, and River Plate, just like in the media. But on the ground, I discovered a delightfully localised and deeply detailed football culture.
To my surprise, shirts from clubs like Quilmes, Gimnasia La Plata, and Platense were a common sight within just hours of landing.
Each barrio isn’t just home to a football club, it’s home to a sports club that plays a vital role in the local community.
Walking through different districts, you notice how the colours, graffiti, and posters change, signalling you’ve entered another team’s turf. Stickers covered posts and walls in a vivid collage of global football culture.
A special mention to Club Universidad de Chile, whose presence dominated the touristy areas near the fabled Obelisco while en route to a Copa Libertadores tie against Estudiantes de La Plata.
Football Fashion and Focus
One immediate visual difference I noticed throughout my time in Buenos Aires was the dedicated use of club colours by fans.
In Europe, terrace fashion often leans on brands like The North Face, CP Company, and Stone Island.
But in Argentina, it’s all about your team. From authentic vintage jerseys to bootleg designs sold near stadiums, everyone is decked out head to toe in their club’s colours.
My friend’s club allegiances saw her not willing to wear the colours of Boca for our visit, settling for this season’s Liverpool away shirt with former Boca player Alexis Mac Allister on the back instead.
She was the only person in our section not wearing the fabled Azul y Amarillo.
Unmatched Passion and Tension
Another striking difference was the crowd’s focus. In Europe, fans often check their phones or chat during games. In Argentina, every moment is scrutinised—each kick, refereeing decision, or substitution sparks loud reactions—and often profanities.
During Racing Club’s match (despite them dominating), the inability to score created visible tension. Hands on heads, nail-biting, muttering “hijo de puta”—you could feel the anxiety in the air.
Eduardo Galeano once described a goal as “football’s orgasm.” After witnessing the emotional build-up and explosive celebrations, I understood exactly what he meant.
Matchday Traditions: Fernet y Cola + Choripán
Of course, matchday isn’t complete without food and drink. While beer and burgers are available, the real staples are Fernet y Cola and choripán.
The bitterness of Fernet, sweetened by cola and served in a chopped-in-half litre bottle over a chunk of ice, was the perfect pre-game ritual.
Post-match, nothing beats a sandwich loaded with chorizo, fresh off the grill and sliced down the middle. Don’t forget the chimichurri—it’s essential.
Standout Moments and Highlights
The trip’s two biggest highlights were visiting Boca Juniors and discovering Nueva Chicago.
Visiting La Bombonera had long been at the top of my bucket list—and it delivered. Loud, raw, and emotional. Fireworks and a wash of blue and yellow smoke welcomed the players.
The stadium buzzed with energy well beyond kickoff. When Boca scored, the crowd exploded, and I was swept up, quite literally, in waves of celebration.
By full time, I found myself climbing the fencing and perching atop—La Bombonera completed in style.
The next day offered a beautiful contrast. We dropped into the Primera Nacional – Group B for Nueva Chicago vs. Deportivo Morón. There, I met up with the lovely analogue photographer Daniel (@chicagoanalogico), who shared stories about the club’s humble roots.
Despite the club’s reputation for violent Barra Brava groups, we admired their banners and music from a safe distance. It was grassroots football at its finest, with just as much passion as the top-tier matches.
What I Learned About Football Culture in Buenos Aires
It may sound like a cliché, but the sheer depth of Argentina’s football culture is extraordinary. Buenos Aires alone has 18 professional clubs. But it goes beyond the capital—it’s all of Argentina, and all of South America, with influences from neighbouring football giants like Brazil, Chile, and Uruguay.
And somehow, the whole world feels embedded in this one city. You can watch Bodø/Glimt knock out Lazio with excellent local TV coverage, eat in a pizzeria plastered with trinkets honouring Argentine football heroes, and then walk a few blocks to La Bombonera or El Monumental. It’s an unbelievable footballing city.
Everyday Culture, Food, and Life in Buenos Aires
One of the biggest surprises of my time in the city would be the beer culture. From IPAs to stouts, ambers to lagers—top-quality beer is available even in the most basic kiosks. I even discovered Stella Artois Black, a type I’d never seen in Europe.
Another revelation was the bodegón. These traditional, no-frills restaurants serve classic Argentine fare—grilled meats, empanadas, burgers, fries, and sandwiches. Usually tucked into every barrio, they’re filled with nostalgic football memorabilia that gives each place a warm, familiar vibe.
And finally, there’s Dulce de Leche. I couldn’t get enough. Whether in gelato or sandwiched in addictive alfajores, it was irresistible.
It’s the kind of thing you never tire of—and I certainly didn’t.
All our thanks to Joey Corlett.
To see more of Joey’s work, please visit joeycorlett
You can also check out his podcast here: thejourneymenpodcast