“You quickly understand why these principles matter so deeply to everyone involved.”
WELCOME TO THE MILLERNTOR
The people who come to Millerntor-Stadion aren’t coming merely to support St. Pauli. They come to Millerntor because they share the same beliefs: about human rights, political statements, opposition to commercialisation in football, and more.
Football itself might not even be the primary reason for many.
This is a stadium owned by thousands of passionate fans. This is where flags bearing “FCK AFD”—a bold statement against Germany’s right-wing party—flutter proudly during every home game.
This is the stadium where “Football Has No Gender” is prominently displayed. This is where the home team’s captain, Jackson Irvine, wears a rainbow flag armband in every match, making a statement that resonates beyond sport.
Millerntor is truly special. The sound of AC/DC’s “Hell Bells” welcoming the players to the field before the game starts will give you goosebumps.
When the home team scores, Blur’s “Song 2” erupts through the speakers, compelling even neutral spectators to sing along loudly.
In the St. Pauli neighbourhood surrounding Millerntor, the streets come alive before and after matches.
People gather, sharing drinks and conversations in countless bars and pubs. This neighbourhood, one of Hamburg’s most distinctive areas, functions as an “open space” where individuals freely express themselves and bond with the community.
Here, you experience a unique blend of freedom within togetherness.
St. Pauli’s reputation for their progressive values becomes immediately clear when you visit Millerntor and its surrounding area. You quickly understand why these principles matter so deeply to everyone involved. And rest assured—they welcome visitors from all backgrounds with open arms.
I speak from experience as an Indonesian writer who doesn’t work for mainstream or local media, but has been warmly embraced by St. Pauli to cover their stories, even during their time in the second division.
Similarly, Riiana, whose photographs you enjoyed in this post, is a photographer who works independently at Millerntor on match days, feeling completely safe and respected.
When visiting, St. Pauli won’t dazzle you with glitz and glamour, a series of wins, or trophy-filled museums.
They did win the 2. Bundesliga last season, got promoted to the Bundesliga, and you can catch them play against many famous German clubs.
But what they offer instead is far more valuable—an atmosphere unlike any other and a genuinely warm welcome that will leave a lasting impression when you attend a match at Millerntor and explore its vibrant neighborhood.
Welcome to the Hell of St. Pauli!
ALL WORDS AND IMAGES FROM Riiana & Bergas
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