“Lisbon might have its thing, but in Leiria, grassroots football is pure magic. Maybe one day I’ll explore Lisbon’s scene, but for now, I’m sticking with the legends of Vale das Éguas!“
ARCUDA – ALBERGARIA DOS DOZE
“It’s not about the trophies or the big crowds—it’s about friendship, community, and the love for the game,” says Gonçalo Marques, a Pombal-based photographer whose latest project shines a light on grassroots football culture.
The focus of his lens? ARCUDA – a small club from Albergaria dos Doze in Portugal’s Leiria district.
Through analogue photography—”I don’t even own a digital camera yet,” he jokes—Gonçalo captures the raw essence of football far removed from the polished stadiums of Portugal’s top tier.
ARCUDA was founded in 1976 in the wake of Portugal’s transition to democracy, and embodies the spirit of local football.
The club was born from a newfound sense of freedom and a spirit of determination, the club was established by locals eager to build something that truly represented their community.
Sporting its distinctive black and white colours, ARCUDA has always sought to stay true to its roots, fostering an extraordinary bond with the people of Albergaria dos Doze.
Competing consistently in Leiria’s district divisions, the club’s greatest achievement came in the 1980s with back-to-back appearances in the prestigious Taça de Portugal.
Albergaria dos Doze is a small village in the municipality of Pombal, located in the district of Leiria, Portugal. Despite its size, it has a strong identity and is a place that blends history, tradition, and a big sense of community.
The team from Leiria proudly carries the motto: “A strong ARCUDA for a united Albergaria” and plays its home matches at Estádio Vale das Éguas, where Sundays are less about results and more about community. “It’s not just football—it’s family,” Marques explains.
That family feeling is amplified by the club’s supporter group, the “Éguas Doidas.” Formed in 2018 by friends from the village, they’re a rare sight at this level—fans who travel to every away game, making sure ARCUDA is never without support.
“No other team in the Leiria district league has fans like this,” Marques adds. “They make every game feel alive.”
Gonçalo’s decision to shoot the project entirely on film wasn’t just an aesthetic choice. The imperfections and textures of analogue photography mirror the atmosphere of grassroots football—honest, unfiltered, and deeply personal. “Film captures moments just as they are,” he says. “It fits perfectly with the project’s vibe.”
But there’s more to this story than football. It’s about the village itself—Albergaria dos Doze, a place with deep historical roots tied to the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela.
Life here moves slowly, marked by quiet streets, local cafés, and, of course, the rituals of match day. “On Sundays, the whole place comes alive,” Gonçalo says. “People head to the game, singing, cheering—it’s like a tradition.”
The project also carries a deeper emotional weight. In several photos, a flag bearing the face of “Gongas,” a former ARCUDA player, appears.
“He was our friend, part of the ARCUDA family,” Marques explains. “We lost him last year, and it changed how I see things.
“This project is about moments, connections, and remembering why grassroots football matters. It’s not just a sport—it’s community. It’s life.”
Through Gonçalo’s eyes, the world of ARCUDA unfolds—not as a nostalgic ode to football’s past, but as a testament to the sport’s enduring role in small communities.
This is football in its purest form—less about results and more about relationships. And, as Gonçalo puts it, “That’s what makes it special.”
It was a pleasure for The Atlantic Dispatch to sit down with Gonçalo as we learned more about ARCUDA and what makes this club so special.
IT’S ABOUT FRIENDSHIP, COMMUNITY AND THE LOVE FOR THE GAME
The inspiration for this project came naturally. I’ve always loved photography—it’s been a hobby of mine for as long as I can remember.
When it comes to football, I’ve always been drawn to the atmosphere around it. The fans, the energy, the little moments that happen on and off the pitch—they’re just so raw and real, and I love capturing that.
I chose ARCUDA because it’s close to home, literally. It’s a team that’s been a part of my community for years.
I’ve got friends who play there, and the whole vibe around the team is super familiar and welcoming.
It’s not just about the matches; it’s about the people, the connections, and the stories that happen around the game.
With this project, my goal is to show the sense of family that grassroots football has. It’s not about the trophies or the big crowds; it’s about friendship, community, and the love for the game. That’s what makes it special, and that’s what I want to share through my photos.
IT’S IMPERFECT, BUT THAT’S WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL
I went with analogue photography for this project because, honestly, I just love the look and feel of it. The colours and textures you get with film are so unique—it’s got this raw, authentic vibe that’s hard to replicate.
Plus, to be real, I don’t even own a digital camera yet XD. So film was the obvious choice for me because I bought some in thrift stores for a couple of euros!
What I love about analogue is how it captures moments just as they are. There’s something so real about the way light and colours come through on film—it’s imperfect, but that’s what makes it so special.
IT’S PURE, IT’S LOCAL AND IT’S REAL
What makes ARCUDA stand out compared to other grassroots clubs in Portugal is definitely the vibe around the team.
It’s not just about football—it’s about the community. ARCUDA feels like family. Everyone knows each other, from the players to the fans, and that creates this super welcoming and close-knit atmosphere.
On top of that, it’s the heart and passion they bring to every game. You don’t need massive crowds or fancy stadiums to feel the love for the sport here.
It’s pure, it’s local, and it’s real. Growing up near the team, I’ve seen how much it means to people—not just the players but everyone who supports them.
That mix of friendship, passion, and community is what makes ARCUDA special.
THEIR PASSION IS CONTAGIOUS
The “Éguas Doidas” are honestly one of the coolest things about ARCUDA! They’re the club’s supporter group, and they were started by a bunch of friends from the village of Albergaria dos Doze who wanted to show their love for the team.
It’s almost like a tradition now—on Sundays, it’s a must to head to the “Vale das Éguas” stadium to cheer for ARCUDA.
What makes them so special is their energy and commitment. Their motto is all about having fun and supporting the team, and they bring that vibe everywhere they go.
They’re not just loud at home; they travel to every away game too, which is pretty rare at this level. Honestly, no other team in the Leiria district league has fans like this.
The Éguas Doidas make every game feel alive, and their passion is contagious—it’s impossible not to get caught up in it!
THEY’RE THE HEART AND SOUL OF ARCUDA
The presence of the Éguas Doidas is massive for both the club and the community. They’re more than just a supporter group—they’re the heart and soul of ARCUDA.
Their energy and passion create this electric atmosphere at every game, whether it’s at home in “Vale das Éguas” or at an away match. For a grassroots club, that kind of support is priceless.
In the community, they bring people together. Sundays aren’t just about football—it’s about everyone coming together, singing, cheering, and having a good time.
The Éguas Doidas make supporting ARCUDA feel like a tradition, and they help keep the spirit of the club alive.
Honestly, without them, it wouldn’t feel the same. They’re not just fans; they’re family to the team and to everyone involved.
THE WHOLE PLACE COMES ALIVE
Albergaria dos Doze is a small, cosy village in central Portugal, and honestly, it’s got such a chill vibe.
It’s the kind of place where everyone knows each other, and there’s a real sense of community. Life here moves at its own pace—nothing too rushed, just simple and peaceful.
The name “Albergaria dos Doze” has historical roots and goes back to the time when the village was part of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela.
It’s believed there was an Albergaria (a shelter for travellers and pilgrims) in the area, and the “dos Doze” is linked to either the twelve parishes or the twelve knights of the Order of Santiago who protected these lands.
What makes it special is how close-knit it feels. You’ve got the local cafés where people hang out, the quiet streets, and of course, the “Vale das Éguas” stadium, which is a big part of the village’s identity thanks to ARCUDA.
On match days, the whole place comes alive with people heading to the game, singing, and supporting the team.
It might not be a big or flashy place, but it’s full of character and charm. There’s a lot of pride in the community, and you can feel it in how people come together for football, festivals, or just a casual chat at the café. It’s a small village with a big heart.
I’M STICKING WITH THE LEGENDS OF VALE DAS ÉGUAS
Honestly, I can’t say I know much about grassroots football culture in Lisbon… but I can definitely tell you about Leiria XD. Around here, it’s all about passion, community, and showing up for your local team no matter what. Clubs like ARCUDA are at the heart of it all.
What I’ve learned through this project is just how much grassroots football isn’t just about the game itself—it’s about the people.
It’s the fans like the Éguas Doidas, the families who come out every weekend, and the players give it everything on the pitch just to earn a bifana and a beer at the end of the game, even if it’s just for the love of the sport. It’s raw, real, and so connected to the local culture.
So yeah, Lisbon might have its thing, but in Leiria, grassroots football is pure magic. Maybe one day I’ll explore Lisbon’s scene, but for now, I’m sticking with the legends of Vale das Éguas!
GONGAS WAS PART OF THE FAMILY
One of the most meaningful moments for me during this project has to do with a flag that appears in some of the photos I’ve shared.
The flag has the face of a friend of mine—our friend—named Gongas. He was a player for ARCUDA for as long as I can remember, and sadly, he passed away last year.
It was such a hard moment for everyone. Gongas wasn’t just a teammate; he was part of the ARCUDA family, part of our community.
Losing him changed how I see things. It made me realise how important it is to cherish every moment we have with our friends and family, to celebrate the small joys and connections we share.
ARCUDA represents all of that—the bonds, the memories, and the sense of belonging. This project has reminded me of how much football is more than just a game; it’s about the people and the relationships that make it so special.
Losing Gongas was incredibly difficult, but his memory lives on in everything we do, and in every match played at Vale das Éguas.
YOU’RE CHEERING FOR YOUR FRIENDS, YOUR NEIGHBOURS AND YOUR FAMILY
What makes football at this level so special compared to the top leagues in Portugal is how raw and real it is. There’s no big money, no fancy stadiums, or superstar players—it’s just people playing for the love of the game.
The players give it everything on the pitch, not for fame or fortune, but for a bifana and a beer after the match, and honestly, that’s what makes it magical.
It’s also the sense of community. At clubs like ARCUDA, everyone knows each other—the players, the fans, even the volunteers working behind the scenes. The connection is personal. You’re not just cheering for a team; you’re cheering for your friends, your neighbours, and your family.
Moments like the ones we’ve had with the Éguas Doidas or honouring Gongas’ memory show how much football at this level is about the people and the emotions.
It’s not just about results—it’s about friendship, belonging, and celebrating life together. That’s something you just don’t find in the big leagues.
All our thanks to Gonçalo Marques, who you can follow on Instagram
You can also follow the mighty ARCUDA as well.