The Twilight of Jahnstadion: Berlin’s Football Legacy Amid Changing Times

November 20, 2024

I’m not here to reveal anything new (at least, I hope not!): the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. In Berlin, however, since October 8th and the start of the demolition phase, the Jahnstadion has been experiencing its twilight in the eastern part of the city.

Rich in unique history, the stadium, perched on Mauerpark hill, has lived nearly a thousand lives. Initially a training ground for the Prussian army, the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion became the cradle of Berlin football in the late 19th century.

From BFC Alemannia 90 in 1890 to Viktoria Berlin’s matches as recently as August 18th, the stadium, known for its distinctive colourful seats, has hosted an array of clubs—ranging from the humblest to the most celebrated.

It served as the first official home ground for Hertha BSC, a fallback venue for Union Berlin, and the stage for BFC Dynamo’s great European moments in the 1980s.

It was also home to Türkiyemspor Berlin, a symbol of Berlin’s Turkish community. Yet, despite its storied past, the third-largest stadium in the German capital will likely never receive the recognition it deserves.

Efforts by citizens’ initiatives, including protests and a last-minute petition, failed to sway the Berlin State’s decision.

The noise of excavators tearing down the main stand now echoes to the east of the 300-meter stretch of the Berlin Wall preserved behind the Jahnstadion.

To the west, beyond the remains of the Wall, stands the Olympiastadion Berlin on Olympischer Platz. Its two 35-meter-high towers, adorned with suspended Olympic rings, remain a defining landmark.

The atmosphere surrounding the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion is sombre. From the outside, the Olympiastadion appears frozen in time, a monument crystallised in history. Since its completion in 1936, only the addition of a roof over the stands has altered Hitler’s original architectural vision.

At the time, Hitler sought to showcase German supremacy and the Nazi regime’s ideals through the Olympic Games. The Olympiastadion became a symbol of this propaganda, its design inspired by the Colosseum and ancient Greek architecture.

The use of limestone, the intricate wrought iron sconces, and the remarkable preservation of the structure amplify its imposing presence. Inside, the stadium exudes solemnity.

The air feels distinct, and the gaze instinctively turns westward to the Bell Tower, visible through the gap in the stadium’s oval at the Marathon Gate, where the Olympic cauldron once stood.

The seemingly endless rows of grey seats stretch uninterrupted, almost distracting from the less appealing athletics track.

In Berlin, history is always written with a capital “H.” Football in the German capital is no exception—it intertwines with history, becoming an inseparable part of its narrative.