A Night with La U: Football, Fireworks and Pure Passion in Lima

Words and Images: Loïc Bogas.

If you ever find yourself in Lima on a matchday, do yourself a favour — get a ticket to the Estadio Monumental and see Universitario de Deportes, or just La U as everyone calls them. It’s not just football here; it’s a full-on experience.

First Impressions

From the outside, the Estadio Monumental doesn’t look as big as it really is. You see the top of the stands and think, ah, decent size. Then you step inside, and suddenly it opens up — four huge stands, drums echoing from every direction, and a sea of noise that doesn’t stop for a second.

The place lives up to its name: monumental. And when you’re surrounded by 80,000 people singing, jumping, and waving flags, it hits you — this isn’t just sport, it’s pride, history, and identity all packed into one evening.

Crema, Crema

In Lima, you can spot a crema crema a mile off — that’s what the locals call Universitario fans, a nod to the club’s cream-coloured shirts. My friends who wore the jersey were always greeted that way, sometimes with a nod of respect, other times with a bit of friendly rivalry. You can tell this club means something deep to people here.

They’re top of the league right now, and you can feel the anticipation in the air. Every chant, every drumbeat, every flare going off feels like part of a collective push towards the title.

History Everywhere

Before you even step into the stands, you’re already walking through decades of history. Old photos, jerseys, newspaper clippings — the walls tell the story before the fans even start singing it. Outside the stadium, there’s a huge mural featuring club legends with the words reminding you that being at La U is more than just supporting a football club.

That night’s choreo — the massive display the fans organised — was dedicated to Teodoro “Lolo” Fernández, one of Universitario’s greatest ever players. He passed away nearly 30 years ago, but his presence is everywhere. The club’s past isn’t something they look back on quietly — it’s something they celebrate out loud, together.

A Different Kind of Football

As a European, I thought I’d seen it all — I’ve been to San Siro, heard 80,000 fans roar, but this was something else. South American football is different. There are no tourists snapping photos and checking their phones. Everyone’s there to shout, to live the match.

The first half ended 0-0, but the noise never dipped. When La U finally scored, the place erupted. It wasn’t just a cheer — it was an explosion. Fireworks, flares, people hugging strangers. You couldn’t help but get caught up in it.

Just Being There

Walking out after the final whistle, I realised it wasn’t just about the football. It was about belonging — about being part of something bigger than the game. Universitario isn’t just the biggest club in Lima; it’s the heartbeat of the city.

If you love football, or even just love being around people who really care about something, go to a match at the Monumental. You’ll leave with your ears ringing, your voice gone, and a smile that’ll take a while to fade.