Culture

Culture

In-depth conversations with the voices shaping culture, calcio, and society. Explore unique perspectives, personal stories, and inspiring journeys from around the world.

Culture

A Lifetime in Green and White: Witnessing Coritiba’s Return


All words and images by Gabriel Wisniewski


For Coritiba fan and photographer Gabriel Wisniewski, football has never been just a sport—it has been a companion through every stage of his life. Home and away, through heartbreak and glory, he has followed Coxa with unwavering devotion, capturing unforgettable moments through his lens. But few experiences could compare to Coritiba beating Amazonas FC 2–1 and securing their long-awaited return to Brazil’s top flight.

What follows is Gabriel’s personal, emotional reflection, a testament to what it means to love Coritiba.


More Than Just a Trophy

More than just a trophy on the shelf, being champions of Série B is a recognition of the absolute dedication of the players, the coaching staff, and—above all—the Coritiba fans. Over the last two years, we went through difficult times and setbacks, moments when we could have lost hope. But that didn’t happen. Whenever the team needed us, the fans were there. We gave everything for the history and tradition of what it means to be Coritiba.


The Team Who Wore the Shirt With Honour

The team also responded—not only with results, but by truly honouring our green and white jersey. Players like Sebastian Gomez, Josué, Pedro Morisco, Lucas Ronier, Maicon, and Jacy were key figures in achieving our goal.

Knowing that we were champions with our biggest rival finishing in second place, and remaining undefeated in the three derbies we played this year, makes everything taste even sweeter. It’s definitely among the best feelings. Seeing my team lift the trophy brings me true pride and an indescribable sense of hope.


A Fan’s Mosaic of Memories

The truth is, I can’t choose a single “favourite memory.” A fan’s passion is a mosaic.

Every time I stepped onto the Couto Pereira pitch with my family, with the people I love; every time I celebrated a goal with strangers; every time I got showered with beer; every time I took a photo with that passionate gaze—those were moments I will never forget.


Back to the Elite — And Ready for More

Now, we are back where we belong: the elite of Brazilian football. The title we won in 2025 is just the beginning of the redemption arc for the most traditional team in Paraná.

Bring on 2026.

In 2025, the unity between players and fans reminded us, more than ever, that Coritiba is no joke. And the championship title brought a mixture of relief, a feeling of mission accomplished, and a renewed ambition to see the club achieve much more. The celebration was well-deserved by everyone—an achievement built by many hands.

As our beloved team anthem says:
“Meu Coritiba é campeão do povo, ó glorioso, como é bom te ver campeão!”


All words and images by Gabriel Wisniewski

KATE CARTER-LARG TALKS BIG, FILTHY OOZING WITH CHEESE-LEVEL TOASTIES

For Kate Carter-Larg, the Cheesy Toast Shack is a story of love, risk, hustling, triumph, tribulations, early mornings and late nights. It represents a dream that was worth putting everything on the line for. “We’d put all our savings into it, so failing was not an option,” Kate explains. “We hustled, we worked every day, we went to every event that was viable for us. We didn’t take on any staff until we were a few years in, we posted on social media every day, multiple times a day, and we shouted about our business and made people listen.”

Born in Dorset, in the South of England, the adventure of a lifetime would begin for Kate when she found herself travelling to Bali, in South East Asia. It was there she would meet Sam, her future husband and business partner.

“After a fleeting holiday romance, where we never thought we’d see each other again, he followed me down to Brighton (where I was living at the time). He decided he couldn’t live down there (distinct lack of surf) so got me to visit him in Scotland. I fell in love with it straight away, and pretty much decided to just not leave.

We had another year of travelling around a bit, including heading back to Bali to spend a few months of more beaches and surfing, before heading back to Scotland together with the idea of starting our own business.”

With only a small amount of savings between them, they knew that any kind of fixed cafe would be out of the question. “It just seemed so obvious, everyone loves a toastie, but not some dry, thin crappy Costa-style one. Instead, we wanted to do big, filthy, oozing with cheese-level toasties, with fillings that you don’t get just anywhere.”

With that idea, the wheels were set in motion. Scared, but with an unrelenting desire and determination to succeed, Kate and Sam put their life savings into everything and set off in search of their dream.

That dream would become a reality and take them all across the UK, to events, festivals and Glastonbury. They would be crowned Street Vendor of the Year,  and earn the accolade of Scottish Street

Finalist. They would establish two sites, receiving visitors from all over the globe and go viral across social media. Renowned food critic, Jay Rayner, would give his seal of approval. Celebrities would come far and wide to taste their manchego with chorizo, red pepper and jalapeno chutney, or delight in their New Yorker made with sliced Swiss, pastrami, American mustard and sauerkraut. It would become a place that is now part of the family, with Kate, Sam and their two wonderful children.

It is a story that not even in her wildest of dreams could she have imagined. But it all happened. It really did. And it was a pleasure to sit down with Kate and talk about the journey she’s been on, her biggest challenges, being her own biggest critic and her proudest achievements.

We knew we wanted to be self-employed…we understood it’d be high risk and high stress, but we wanted to have a lifestyle where we could spend time together, and not have to answer to anyone else (we’ve always been quite headstrong and neither of us like being told what to do by someone else!)

We only had a small amount of savings between us, so we knew any kind of fixed cafe etc would be out of the question, so that immediately put us in the market for a food trailer. We just jumped on Gumtree and found a practically new trailer near Glasgow. A guy had bought it and then decided to not bother pursuing his burger van career, so we grabbed it and towed it back over to Fife.

We’d been looking at what was available street food-wise in Scotland, and the scene was starting to blow up. So many great options and traders, but no cheese toasties! It just seemed so obvious, everyone loves a toastie, but not some dry, thin crappy Costa-style one. Instead, we wanted to do big, filthy, oozing with cheese-level toasties, with fillings that you don’t get just anywhere.

Sam and I worked on the trailer, whilst getting everything else set up, and within a couple of months, we were good to go. We secured a pitch at a local beach and then would tow the trailer to events all over Scotland in between working Kingsbarns beach, to get the word out there about our brand and our business.

This did us wonders, as within our first year of trading we managed to secure a pitch at The Edinburgh Fringe Festival, where we got named the Best Place To Eat at The Fringe by The Scotsman newspaper.

Off the back of the popularity we experienced from being at such a huge event, we were in a position to apply for a pitch at the next Glastonbury Festival in Somerset. After doing this, our following took a massive jump, and we found we had people reaching out to us from all over the UK, saying they’d tried us and couldn’t stop thinking about our toasties.

During this time we were also doing every other event: street food markets, food competitions, music festivals, weddings….anything we could get our hands on. This eventually led to us then being offered the lease on our now main hub, in St Andrews. So at this point, we had our Kingsbarns pitch, our St Andrews kiosk, as well as multiple street food setups, allowing us to have 5 pitches across the Edinburgh Fringe Festival for the years running up to Covid, making us the biggest independent traders across the city for the Fringe.

Covid was a huge challenge at first. There were grants for some hospitality businesses, however, because we sublet our kiosk we didn’t pay rates, and we weren’t entitled to the first few rounds of grants. So trying to keep our heads above water really was a challenge, bearing in mind we had staff to think about, and at that stage, a 1 year old as well.

As initial lockdown measures eased, we were able to open up shop again, and thankfully, the rules dictated by the Scottish Government just so happened to mean we didn’t need to change much about our operational setup. We were always a takeout unit, from a hatch. We just needed to work with fewer staff on shift at once to keep numbers down, but it was good for us that people were allowed to go for a walk and meet a friend outdoors, as that matched the description of what people did anyway when they’d come to one of our beaches.

It did, however, have a massive impact on the events industry, meaning it was the first time since we started that we weren’t doing any street food at all, or weddings. This obviously meant the income of the business took a massive hit, which was certainly a negative. However, in hindsight, it made us re-evaluate how lucky we were to still have the pitches we were able to trade from.

When the grants that we did qualify for eventually came out, we used that money to invest in the business, by upgrading our equipment. We bought a decent coffee machine, a soft-serve ice cream machine, and high-quality grills. We felt if we could get our products out at a much faster speed and even better quality, then we were utilising what we could, given the restrictions put upon us by the pandemic. And just to make things that little bit extra stressful, we decided it was a good time to have our second baby.

Our biggest achievement would have to be the Glastonbury Festival. We loaded up our campervan and towed our trailer all the way from Scotland. We were located at Worthy View which is the “posh” campsite at the top of the farm, with the pre-erected tents (not that we were allowed to stay in those).

We were only allowed the bare minimum of staff passes (the cost of a ticket per staff member is factored into your pitch fee so we couldn’t afford many). We got a few friends to come down with us to work, thinking we’d get to spend a decent chunk of the festival watching music and enjoying the festival…how wrong we were! We were mobbed from the minute we opened the hatch in the morning, doing breakfast toasties to the hungover masses, all the way through the day, with a small window where it quietened off when the headlining acts were on, and then went crazy busy again through to the early hours. We came back to Scotland exhausted but with an amazing feeling of pride and achievement. 

Another of those pinch-me moments was when Jay Rayner, the famous food critic who writes for The Guardian / The Observer, came to visit us. He left a glowing review and then featured us in the Guardian’s best-value places to eat around the coast of the

Abi, who’s our manager at the St Andrews shop actually asked me the other day if I ever think how wild it is that people drive so far to come to our shack and hold it in such high regard.  And that this is all for something that we have created.  It really made me stop and think how cool that is.  We’re so well received, and people really do make huge trips just to come and try our food. It’s very humbling, although I do still find myself being my biggest critic.  If I know a famous person is coming down, I panic, and worry that they’ll just think “What’s all the fuss about?” However, that has not actually happened yet!

We love how, generally, everything is received really well on social media.  We know we post a lot, but it’s paid off.  Every single day we get at least one customer coming down to the hatch, to say they’ve come because they’ve seen our silly/cheesy videos online and it’s made them want to visit.  We get the occasional troll which always blows my mind, but I just need to remind myself that our socials are free marketing, and it’s obviously working, because we get customers and followers from all over the world.  Just this week alone, I’ve posted t-shirts and hoodies to New York, and Philadelphia

Our followers and likes have taken a huge surge in the last year since we’ve really picked up our efforts online.  We find now that simply posting a photo of a toastie doesn’t get the same levels of interaction as when we post videos, so it’s just about continuing to follow trends and posting videos, and just trying to make our page something a bit silly and fun.

I would advise anyone looking to set up their own business, to just go for it. We always get people asking us “Weren’t we scared it wouldn’t work?” Of course we were, we’d put all our savings into it, so failing was not an option.

We hustled, we worked every day, we went to every event that was viable for us. We didn’t take on any staff until we were a few years in, we posted every day, multiple times a day, and we shouted about our business and made people listen.

I honestly don’t know if I’d have it in me now to hustle as hard as we did back at the beginning, but I’ve also got 2 small children now who I love spending time with, so I couldn’t be towing trailers back from Edinburgh at 1 am, as I love that I can be present for them and be the one that does every bedtime and that I get to see them every morning.

If I’m not working, I try to start the day off by getting to the gym. A couple of years ago, after having my youngest daughter, I got into CrossFit, which I just fell in love with. I’m still not very good at it but it helps my headspace as well as my physical fitness.

Sam and I try and get out for a walk together; our favourite place being Tensmuir Forest, where we love to stop for a crepe from Salt and Pine. We may have to answer a few emails/go and film some videos for the pages, and before we know it 3 o’clock rolls around and it’s time to grab our girls from school/playgroup

If they’ve not got after-school clubs then they may ask us to take them to the skatepark to practice their skateboarding. If it’s not a school day then we try and get them for a surf at West Sands (if there is any) followed by live music at Dook and a few Aperol Spritz’ for us. Whatever we do, it’s hugely family-oriented. With 7 cousins living close by, and 3 sets of aunties and uncles, as well as Sam’s parents, we’re invariably hanging out with other Largs.

Every Christmas we have raclette on the menu, which is raclette cheese, served over garlic potatoes with charcuterie meats and dressed salad. You basically scrape the melted cheese over the potatoes, and it’s just amazing. It’s such a treat, and can’t help but make you feel festive.

For the year ahead, we want to keep concentrating on giving the best possible products to our customers. We feel that we’re on a really positive trajectory at the moment. Our team’s collective hard work is getting more and more recognised, with a greater following online and more customers coming to the shops. We want to concentrate on keeping this at a high level, and who knows, if the market is right, maybe even opening up some more locations.

With all our thanks to Kate Carter-Larg

Latest

HERTHA BSC: WE STAND TOGETHER THROUGH IT ALL

Cohesion makes us unique. We Berliners stick together, especially when it comes to Hertha BSC.

Our club has faced more ups and downs than I can count, with years of missteps and money wasted on almost nothing. But we stand together through it all. In 2022, a turning point came when Kay Bernstein became our president.

His leadership rekindled our sense of unity, reminding us why we’re Hertha fans. Kay brought us back together — and we owe him so much. Tragically, he left us too soon, but his spirit lives on in each of us. Rest in peace, Kay.


NO, AWAY TRIP IS COMPLETE WITHOUT THAT FIRST BEER

On October 26, we headed out to see Hertha face off against our friends from Karlsruher SC (KSC). This wasn’t just any away game; Hertha and KSC share a friendship that goes back decades.

We left Berlin in the middle of the night, barely any sleep, and set off in two cars. The excitement was enough to keep us going.

It’s a long drive, but as soon as dawn broke, out came the first beers. That’s how it’s done — no away trip is complete without that first beer as the sun rises.


THE TRADITION OF FRIENDSHIP IS STILL ALIVE

When we arrived, the atmosphere was electric, full of anticipation but no tension. We were welcomed as friends, as we always are in Karlsruhe, and the feeling was mutual.

Since 1976, our clubs have been connected by this unique bond. It all began when Hertha fans travelled to Karlsruhe for a match, and KSC fans met us at the station, offered to drive us to a pub, and later to the stadium.

Hertha won 3-0 that day, but it was the start of something bigger. Friendships were made over beers, and addresses were exchanged to keep in touch.

Over the years, even though our teams played in different leagues, fans from both sides would visit each other whenever a match brought us close. That tradition of friendship is still alive, spanning generations.

The game itself was unforgettable. We won 3-1, but it was more than just the score. The chants from the stands — “Hertha” from their side, “Karlsruhe” from ours — echoed back and forth.

The sound filled the stadium, giving me goosebumps. It’s rare to experience something that pure, that celebratory, without any rivalry.

After the match, we celebrated as friends, not foes. At the hotel, then the restaurant, and later over countless beers. We celebrated each other and this shared journey.

Soon, we’ll be celebrating 50 years of this friendship, one of the oldest fan connections in Europe. It’s more than football — it’s history, loyalty, and the kind of bond you can only find in the beautiful game.

PUMA AND U.S. SASSUOLO CALCIO UNVEIL THE NEW 2025/2026 THIRD KIT

PUMA and U.S. Sassuolo Calcio today unveil the new Third Kit that will accompany the men’s first team and youth sector of the Neroverdi during the 2025/26 season. The kit boldly stands out in the stylistic narrative of the season, offering a stark contrast to the elegance of the Home Kit and the simplicity of the Away Kit, while gifting fans an energetic and original design.

The new Third Kit is characterised by a crew-neck collar and a regular fit, designed to ensure comfort and freedom of movement. It is finished with tailored details such as contrasting tipping on the collar and cuffs, and features a colour palette inspired by the vintage-disco vibes of the 1970s, striking a perfect balance between iconic Neroverdi tones.

The front combines the colourways Faster Yellow, Fast Green, and PUMA Green, creating a dynamic and vibrant visual effect, while the side panels in PUMA Black provide elegant and bold definition to the silhouette. The collar, with contrast details, features a bright Fast Green accent on the back for strong visual impact and recognisability. The sleeves, also finished with tipping, seamlessly integrate into the colour composition with accents designed to emphasise the kit’s unique personality.

Adding to the distinctiveness of the collar is the phrase “Emozioni Neroverdi” — a signature detail that evokes the soul of the club and its deep bond with the fanbase. A bold statement that aligns with the narrative of the 2025/26 season ticket campaign and reinforces the connection between the team, its supporters, and the local community.

The new Third Kit incorporates PUMA’s dryCELL technology to ensure maximum breathability and comfort for both fans and players. Reflecting PUMA’s commitment to sustainability, the kit is produced through the RE: FIBRE initiative, which repurposes textile waste to create new materials without compromising on quality. Composed of at least 95% recycled textile waste and other used polyester materials, this initiative represents a significant step toward a more circular and sustainable production process for football jerseys.

The new U.S. Sassuolo Calcio Third Kit is available starting today at store.sassuolocalcio.it, the Sassuolo Official Store, and selected football retailers.

Libertadores Fever: Flamengo, Estudiantes and the City That Never Sleeps


All words and images by Gregorio Gastaldi


Match day at the Maracanã is special. It’s very difficult to fill one of the biggest stadiums in the world. But Flamengo wasn’t the exception this time, and Cariocas attended in massive numbers. In fact, the attendance was  71.411 torcedores, the record at Maracanã stadium (and the whole country) since its renewal . People arrived extremely early. For security? Not really. Access to the stadium works very well and is very fast. But the street pre-show is a must. Cariocas love eating, drinking and dancing in the street — any day, any time, and for any reason. An important night like this one was more than enough to do so. Estudiantes’ away fans also came from La Plata (Argentina) and spent the whole day cheering at the beach. Why not? Futebol e praia is a religion in Rio de Janeiro.

Flamengo won and played very well for most of the game. Pedro scored the fastest goal in Libertadores history at 15 seconds. Their start was electric and ferocious. Two–nil in the first half, a difference that could have been much bigger. Instead, in the second half, they got a red card, conceded a goal, and it could almost have been a draw if Estudiantes’ striker hadn’t missed a last-minute chance. An absolutely intense night.


A Trophy Every Club Dreams Of

The Libertadores never disappoints. A quarter-final match is enough motivation for anybody to turn out in numbers. Every team in South America dreams of winning this trophy. Estudiantes have won four titles (only three clubs have more) and remain one of the continent’s most historic representatives, known for their tenacity. Their last win came in 2009, and they had spent a few years without even qualifying.

With one fewer trophy (three), Flamengo’s last triumph was in 2022. They have been a constant presence over the last decade, reaching almost every stage of the competition year after year. The club has invested heavily in recent transfer markets, which has created big expectations and responsibility. Estudiantes, meanwhile, are widely known for their strong identity and reputation as a copero club — a label for those who show resilience in crucial moments. Across South America, this competition is the absolute priority, no matter the team.


Brazil vs Argentina: Rivalry Renewed

In one of the tightest tournaments in the world, what could make a game more compelling than a quarter-final at the Maracanã? An old rivalry between two of the biggest football nations. Every time Argentinian and Brazilian teams face each other, tension is inevitable.

This time, both sides showed mutual respect during the week in press conferences and even in the protocol handshake on the pitch. But that ended quickly once the referee blew the first whistle. From there, it was a beautiful event to witness, whether from the field or in the stands: two different shows at the same time, ninety minutes of pure hostility.

It’s funny, because after all, people from both countries love each other — whenever there’s no football in between, of course.


A City That Never Sleeps

Rio de Janeiro is a city that never sleeps. For many people, it didn’t matter that Flamengo were playing late at night. Across the whole area, families were still selling street food from their own homes, alongside the famous sight of cold beers pulled from bags of ice. Nothing unusual for football fans worldwide.

For others, attending the match meant facing mandatory work early the next morning. Overcrowded public transport, trying to catch the last ride home, is part of the ritual. The crowd was divided — split into two types. The same happened with the mood after the game. Flamengo fulfilled their responsibility at home, but the scoreline could have been much bigger, and they missed many chances.

In the Libertadores, sometimes a single-goal advantage is not enough when you have to play away next time, and half of the torcida felt that. Estudiantes, instead, left with a kind of miraculous relief. It’s the mental side of the Cup — a competition that can take you from celebration to frustration in one second. Only achievable for those who can endure the suffering.


All words and images by Gregorio Gastaldi

To follow Gregorio on social media, please click here

The South American Diaries: Part 2. Chile’s Football Soul Beyond the Superclásico

All words and images by Jonas Zöller

The morning after the international, I am restless. I want more football, so I sit down in a café and look up the fixtures for the upcoming weekend: jackpot. Not only are there matches from Friday to Sunday in both the first and second divisions, but on Sunday, the Supercopa de Chile is being played between Universidad de Chile and Colo-Colo. The country’s two most successful clubs meet in the city derby—maybe something like the holy grail of Chilean fan culture.


A Ticket Hunt Gone Wrong

My excitement is cut short. Unlike the qualifier, it is simply not possible to buy tickets for these games through the usual platforms. Sometimes I am asked for a RUT, a Chilean tax number; sometimes for a local credit card. I try every site I can find, using fake numbers and VPNs. I ask at my hostel, where they kindly lend me a real RUT. Nothing works. I also learn that the Chilean Superclásico between ‘La U’ and Colo-Colo has been restricted to youth teams and fans over fifty-five because of safety concerns. Frustrated, I give up for the moment.


Exploring Santiago

I push the problem aside and set out to explore Santiago. The city is hard to pin down. Some parts feel wealthy and Western, others look as if they have been under construction for half a century. Street stalls and corner shops weave around tower blocks, while white stone churches and glass skyscrapers rise in between. All of it is framed by the hills and, in the distance, the snow-covered Andes breaking through the gaps between the buildings.


A Hidden Football Treasure

In Providencia, one of the more polished districts, I stumble upon a tiny shop. The counter is crammed with football memorabilia, the walls covered with shirts—Chilean and international, brand new and decades old. The place is barely the size of a storeroom, but I could spend hours here. David, the owner, knows as much about the game as he has shirts in stock. We start talking, as far as my limited Spanish allows. We move from jerseys to sticker albums, from Chilean to German football, from shady agents to, inevitably, Kaiserslautern. Before I leave, David hands me his credit card, and with it I finally manage to buy a ticket for a second-division game: Santiago Morning against Universidad de Concepción.


Journey to La Pintana

I lose track of time with David, so I am running late. I order an Uber to La Pintana. Both locals and the internet had warned me about the district, and during the long ride, I couldn’t help feeling nervous. But the nerves fade as soon as I arrive at the Estadio Municipal de La Pintana. At the gate I am greeted with a smile, and inside the ground the sparse crowd makes it clear: there is nothing to worry about. The atmosphere is closer to Sunday league than second division. At half time a father and son kick a ball around next to the stands, two girls on the terrace play with their dolls, and neither the fifty travelling away fans nor the three hundred locals show much organised support.


A Different Kind of Charm

As at the Estadio Nacional, the Andes provide the backdrop. The wooden stands and barred player tunnel give the place its own charm, and I feel welcome here. Still, the raw force of South American fan culture is something I have yet to find.


All words and images by Jonas Zöller.

You can follow Jonas on social media by clicking here


A Classic English Atmosphere: The East Anglian Derby

Images by Diego Crespo

When Spanish photographer Diego Crespo travelled from Spain to watch the East Anglian Derby at Portman Road, he arrived to find a city painted blue. Ipswich Town were hosting Norwich City — a fixture heavy with history — and this time, it would end in jubilation. The Tractor Boys won 3–1, their first derby victory in sixteen years.

For Crespo, it was his first-ever English derby, and he was struck by the scene that unfolded before him.

“A classic English atmosphere. Pure essence. Seeing so many people on the streets dressed in blue on the way to the stadium is beautiful. And during the derby match, it’s always nerve-wracking. I think the result was perfect for seeing people less nervous in the final minutes and celebrating.”

As the match built towards its conclusion, the crowd’s tension slowly gave way to joy — a release years in the making. From his place among the fans, Crespo captured the emotion, the movement, the collective sigh of relief that followed the final whistle.

It was a completely new experience for him.

“It’s the first derby I’ve seen in England. I hope to see more this year so I can better compare it with other English derbies. Obviously, it’s very different from the derbies I’ve seen in Spain or Italy. I like the atmosphere surrounding a match in England, and a derby is like a big event to be with family and friends.”

Crespo has photographed football culture across Europe — from Spain’s vibrant terraces to Italy’s theatrical tifos — but he says there’s something distinct about the English game. The East Anglian Derby, with its mix of anticipation and nostalgia, gave him a taste of what English football means to local communities.

And Portman Road left an impression.

“The stadium looks incredible; it’s what we in Spain imagine when we talk about an English stadium. The stands being close to the grass is always good. The location is also great; it’s a stadium connected to the city that you can visit every day, not like those stadiums on the outskirts that you only go to every two weeks and look commercial.”

As Ipswich supporters spilt into the streets after the final whistle, singing, smiling, wrapped in blue and white, Crespo’s camera told the story better than words could. A long wait was over, and a visiting photographer had witnessed English football in its truest form: passionate, local, and deeply human.


All words and images by Diego Crespo

You can follow Diego here on social media


The South America Diaries: Part 3. Inside Club Deportivo Palestino

Image and words by Jonas Zöller

After the frustration with tickets, I had fired shots in every direction, posting on social media and asking for any help. I did not expect much when Simone suddenly slid into my DMs.

I sit down in a bar and read her message. She had spent a semester abroad the year before and faced the same problem. Her approach had been to write directly to the clubs, asking for press accreditation. To her surprise, it worked.

She passes me her contacts and sends me a video on top. The footage shows the fans of La U: flares, fireworks, a mass of bodies celebrating — exactly what I had come here for.


Estadio Municipal de La Cisterna

The next day, I am back in an Uber — this time to the Estadio Municipal de La Cisterna. Club Deportivo Palestino was founded in 1920 by Palestinian immigrants and has since won two league titles and three domestic cups. Yet the club is far more than a football team.

The Palestinian colours are everywhere; Arabic music drifts through the stands; the graffiti on the walls speaks of Israeli oppression. I am not prepared for how political the place feels.

I also look the part of a foreigner. People spot me straight away, and when they notice my press armband, they begin to speak to me about Palestine. My Spanish is nowhere near good enough to follow everything, but I understand enough to hear their desperation. I lack the words to explain myself — and in truth, I would not know what to say anyway.

Suddenly, a TV crew appears and asks if they can interview me, a German reporter, for their Palestinian-Chilean channel. I am caught off guard but scrape together enough Spanish to thank the club for the opportunity and add a short: “Free Palestine.”


The Match

For all the weight of the politics, the atmosphere is warm. People laugh, pose for photos, carry themselves with pride. When the away fans from Rancagua arrive, my focus shifts back to the game. Around a thousand of them fill the stand, and for the first time, I feel a taste of the South American intensity I have been looking for.

The songs rise in rhythm, their volume carrying into the press box where I sit.

On the pitch, the visitors go ahead in the first half and double their lead after the break. A curling free kick pulls one back, but it ends 2–1. The locals are disappointed with the loss, of course — and still, I leave with the feeling that the real game is being fought in Gaza, on a pitch far away from here.


Reflections

On the way back to my hostel, I sit in the back of the car with mixed feelings. I did not expect the war in Palestine to weigh so heavily on me that day. My first press accreditation, a strong away following, and the heat of the sun leave me drained.

When evening comes, I skip the trip to the La U team hotel, where the barra brava are gathering to light the spark before the Chilean Superclásico against Colo-Colo.


All words and images by Jonas Zöller.

You can follow Jonas on social media by clicking here


Scroll to Top

Newsletter

Subscribe to theatlanticdispatch for fresh perspectives, insightful analysis, and stories that matter