In Focus
In Focus
In-depth conversations with the voices shaping culture, calcio, and society. Explore unique perspectives, personal stories, and inspiring journeys from around the world.
Brazil and the Unspoken Language of Football
Words and images: Markus Blumenfeld For Markus Blumenfeld, football is
Through the Theatre of Dreams
Photographer Jorge Barna reflects on the history, emotion, and unshakeable
Independiente Chose Me
The late afternoon light spills across the streets of Avellaneda,
Words and images: Markus Blumenfeld
For Markus Blumenfeld, football is more than a spectacle; it is a shared language spoken across continents. As the creator of The Global Game, a docu-series dedicated to capturing the stories, fans, and fleeting moments that make football special, Blumenfeld uses the sport as a lens through which to understand the world. His work explores the idea that football is an unspoken dialect, one capable of connecting people across borders, backgrounds, and belief systems. A uniting force in a divided world.
In Brazil, that language takes on its purest form.
From the concrete pitches of Rocinha to the thunder of the Maracanã, from São Paulo’s Várzea grounds to the red earth of Vila dos Sonhos in Minas Gerais, Blumenfeld traces football not as entertainment, but as inheritance — Patrimônio Brasileiro. Here, the game is survival and celebration, escape and expression. It is passed from father to son in the favelas, sung into the night by thousands in the stadiums, and defended fiercely by those who believe in the enduring spirit of Joga Bonito.
Through personal encounters — with young dreamers, devoted ultras, and barefoot street players — Blumenfeld reveals a country where football does not simply reflect culture; it shapes it. In Brazil, the beautiful game is not just played. It is lived.
Every generation has a Brazilian legend who made them fall in love with football. Before my time, it was Pelé. For me, it was Ronaldinho. Next came Neymar. The way they play — with flair, improvisation, and joy — turns football into a love story. Football is the “Brazilian heritage” (Patrimônio Brasileiro).
Brazil had always been a dream of mine — a football pilgrimage to the birthplace of Joga Bonito. I started my journey in Rio to experience the different layers of that history. In Rio, life and football bleed into each other. You feel it in Rocinha, the largest favela in Latin America. I went there to understand what the game means to people in these communities, and it was through personal stories that it began to make sense.
Through the eyes of Vitinho, a young father, football becomes the ultimate connector — a passion he is already passing on to his son. For him, the game represents freedom, community, expression, and opportunity.
He told me:
“The difference with football here in the favelas is that children need to have a dream to survive. And of course, the dream of every kid in the favela is to one day be a great player, to have the opportunity to improve life for your family. This is the Brazilian heritage, the culture of dreaming, to live with hope.”
Following Vitinho and his son gave a voice to Rocinha. We climbed narrow alleys and steep staircases to a concrete pitch hanging over the city. There, I played barefoot, witnessing a level of joy and intensity I had never seen before. Football here is both escape and pathway — a way out of poverty and violence in a place where there are so few other routes.
But the game does not live only in the favelas. It is the heartbeat of the carioca lifestyle, and in the stadiums, it feels unlike anywhere else. Outside, a sea of people — drinking, grilling meat, singing for hours before kick-off. On this trip, I saw SPFC, Santos, Corinthians, Fluminense, Botafogo, Vasco, and Flamengo. The Maracanã shook as Flamengo won, the whole of Rio spilling into the night. I experienced Corinthians’ infamous Gaviões da Fiel, one of the most intense and intimidating ultra groups in world football.
Still, it was Vasco da Gama and the iconic São Januário that stole my heart — intimate, historic, and beautiful. The stadium is carved into the working-class bairro de Vasco, in the heart of a favela. The club and its home ground are built on resilience and diversity in a way that feels deeply Brazilian. At half-time, you slip through a tunnel into a tiny Portuguese restaurant hidden inside the stadium walls.
In São Paulo, you feel a different rhythm: pelada on concrete courts, Corinthians shirts everywhere, and then Várzea on the edge of the city — muddy pitches, smoke from barbecues, local heroes who will never be on television but play as if their lives depend on it. I played pickup with some of the most talented street footballers I have ever met. There, Vinni tried to explain what Joga Bonito means to him and his friends.
“Don’t kill Joga Bonito,” he said. “Joga Bonito and street football in Brazil — it’s almost like our soul, you know? It’s our way of playing. We’ve been doing this since we were kids, when we didn’t have shoes. I think now Brazil is trying to follow the European way of playing, but we must remember we won five World Cups playing Joga Bonito — playing with joy, just expressing ourselves. I think we can win and play beautifully. And for those of us who came from poor backgrounds, it’s tough, because this is the only way we know how to express ourselves.”
Outside the cities, I travelled with Marcos Vinícius and Terra FC. We drove into the hills of Minas Gerais to Vila dos Sonhos — the Village of Dreams. It is a small football sanctuary where kids from the favelas come to play, learn, and breathe a different kind of air for a few days. No glamour, no stadium lights — just red earth, green pitches, and the sense that the game can still build something instead of simply selling it.
If Rio’s favelas and São Paulo’s Várzea show football as survival and expression, Vila dos Sonhos reminds you that it can still be a tool for possibility. Together, they form a full picture of what Brazilian heritage truly looks like: a ball, a dream, and a country that still believes in the soul of the beautiful game.
Words and images: Markus Blumenfeld
Markus Blumenfeld is the creator of The Global Game, a docu-series that captures the stories, fans, and moments that make football special. Using the beautiful game as a lens to view the world, the series explores football as an unspoken language—one that connects people from different places, backgrounds, and cultures. A uniting force in a divided world.
You can also find The Global Game on YouTube
Photographer Jorge Barna reflects on the history, emotion, and unshakeable devotion that define his love for Manchester United.
For Manchester-based photographer Jorge Barna, Manchester United is a story, a legacy, and a lifelong source of identity. Born into an era of dominance, raised on the mythology of Old Trafford, and shaped by the values and emotion that surround the badge, Jorge carries United with him wherever he goes. In his own words, he explores the culture, history, heartbreak, resilience, and unforgettable moments that make Manchester United, in his opinion, the biggest club in the world.
Words and Images by Jorge Barna
What makes Manchester United such a special, iconic club are its values and traditions — the belief in youth, the ability to produce a comeback, and the constant creation of superstars. Time and time again, this club has produced magical moments. That’s why they call Old Trafford the Theatre of Dreams. From the Busby Babes to the Munich Air Disaster and the rebuild that followed, United’s story is one of resilience, tragedy, and triumph. You can go anywhere in the world, and people will know Manchester United. It’s the biggest football club in the world — simple as that.
Growing Up United
My love for the club came from a young age. My brother made me a United fan. I was born the year United won the treble in 1999, but I would say my era was the team that came after that — the team that dominated the Premier League. We dominated the league during a period where all the rival teams were very strong as well, but the difference was Sir Alex Ferguson. We will never see a manager achieve what he did in England again. It was complete dominance.
The Magic of Old Trafford
Old Trafford is special because it’s where so many iconic moments have happened. From George Best to Cristiano Ronaldo, it’s where some of the greatest players of all time have performed. The stadium has not changed in my lifetime. Many clubs have brand new stadiums, but Old Trafford holds the memories of generations of fans and players. It’s timeless.
Belief in the Return
Do I think Manchester United will get back? One hundred per cent. Even during this era of the past 10 years, the obsession with United is still there. We say, “Hated, adored, but never ignored.” Sir Alex Ferguson is the greatest manager of all time — it was always going to take time to replace him, especially when the core of our team also retired. No matter where the club is in the table, everyone still speaks about Manchester United. Other fans are enjoying this difficult era for United, and it’s understandable — we dominated for 20 years.
Since the new owners have come in, it seems to be a new era. They are investing in players who fight for the badge and fit the system. It’s not about the big-name signing anymore. Even during one of our worst eras, we have still won trophies. The shirt is very heavy — some of the best players in the world have arrived and could not deliver. Manchester United is not a club that celebrates a top-four finish. We celebrate titles. We have seen it all — we have won the lot. You never write off Manchester United.
A Favourite Era
My favourite United moment? It’s hard to pick one. I have watched the club win everything. I would say the 2008 team was my favourite time — watching Ronaldo become the best player in the world, and watching Rooney, who I think is the best player to ever play for United. There will never be another player like him. Every player understood the values of playing for United — attacking football, where you could see the fear in the other teams. Three Champions League finals in four years and three league titles in a row. People often compare the ’99 team with ’08, but for me, this team was the best United side we ever had.
A Pilgrimage Worth Making
People should visit Old Trafford because it’s one of the most iconic stadiums in the world. A lot of the traditional old stadiums have gone now, but Old Trafford is still standing. It’s a place built on history, passion, and unforgettable moments.
All our thanks to Jorge Barna
You can follow Jorge on social media here.
The late afternoon light spills across the streets of Avellaneda, washing the red-and-white shopfronts in a warm glow. We’re sitting at a small café near Avenida Mitre, the kind of place where conversation hums and football talk never really stops. Across the table, photographer Lucio Cosenza stirs his coffee and smiles — the kind of smile that hints at stories tied to family, memory, and a lifelong love of Club Atlético Independiente.
“From the day I was born,” he says, almost matter-of-factly. “My membership card has the same date as my birth certificate. My dad is a die-hard fan too, and he passed it all on to me. I don’t have a single memory in my life without Independiente being part of it somehow.”
“Independiente isn’t just a club,” he says, his tone softening. “It’s something you inherit. A feeling passed down quietly from generation to generation. Its history is massive, full of glory, but what makes it truly unique is what it sparks in people. There’s something sacred in those colours, something that stays with you for life. You don’t choose to support Independiente. Independiente chooses you.”
It’s hard not to get swept up in his devotion. The way he speaks about his club feels almost spiritual, like a faith that you carry with you in everyday life. When matchday arrives, that faith becomes electric. “A home match is felt from the moment you wake up, heart racing, nerves building,” he says. “There’s something magical about the stadium, like the whole neighbourhood breathes football that day.”
And then there’s the derby, Independiente versus Racing Club, one of Argentina’s fiercest rivalries. “The derby against Racing… that’s not just a game,” Lucio says, eyes lighting up. “It’s pride, tension, passion — all mixed together. Everything else fades away. All that matters is Independiente. All that matters is winning.”
His favourite memories, though, aren’t necessarily about results or trophies. “My favourite memories are walking to the stadium with my grandad and my dad,” he recalls. “Those walks were more than just the journey to a match — they were a ritual, a story passed down through generations. Sometimes I can’t even remember the final score, but I’ll never forget those walks together.”
When the conversation turns to players, Lucio doesn’t hesitate. “If you say Independiente, you say Bochini,” he says with conviction. “You can’t think about the club without thinking of him. He played his whole career in our shirt. He won everything, but beyond the trophies, what he did with the ball was magic. He had that kind of class that made time stand still. It’s a love story between a player and his club — one that lasts a lifetime.”
As the café begins to fill with the evening crowd, the character of Buenos Aires becomes more apparent: its taxis, its laughter, and its ever-present talk of football surround us. Lucio looks out toward the street, where kids kick a battered ball against a wall painted red and white. “Football in Buenos Aires isn’t something you explain,” he says. “It’s something you live. People shape their lives around their club. Birthdays, weddings, plans — nothing matters more. Matchday is sacred. It’s pure passion. An emotional engine that brings people together, or tears them apart, but it’s always there.”
In Buenos Aires, football is like a heartbeat. And for Lucio Cosenza, that heartbeat will forever belong to Independiente.
All images and all our thanks to Lucio Consenza
“In the early ’90s, my dad took me to the Grünwalder Stadion for the first time,” Marco Watson says. “The atmosphere and energy of the compact and packed stadium really impressed me as a young boy. The fact that the stadium is right in the middle of the city also made the club especially interesting to me.”
It was there, in Giesing, that his life as a supporter began. The ground is not grand, not modern, not even especially comfortable. But its presence in the heart of the neighbourhood makes it inseparable from the everyday lives of those who live around it. For Watson, it became a place that would come to define not only his weekends but also his friendships and identity.
“My fascination with 1860 has never stopped since,” he says. “Over the years, not only have many friendships been formed, but also a true love, and everything to do with the club has become a kind of life’s purpose for me.”
A tradition that endures
He is not alone. 1860 Munich, known simply as die Löwen—the Lions—still command devotion across the city, despite decades of struggle and decline. “What’s special about TSV 1860 Munich is the incredible tradition in this club,” Watson explains. “The team was not only a founding member of the Bundesliga but also became German champion in 1966.”
But tradition is only part of the story. “On top of that, 1860 has a massive and incredibly dedicated fanbase. The club has basically gone through every imaginable success and failure for decades, yet it still has about 27,000 members. Every home game at the Grünwalder Stadion has been completely sold out for years, even though we only play in the 3. Liga.”
This is the paradox of 1860: the higher peaks belong to history, but the loyalty belongs to the present.
A stadium in the city
The connection is rooted in geography as much as memory. “The Grünwalder Stadion is located right in the Giesing district, making it super convenient to get to by bike, on foot, or with public transport,” Watson says. “There are lots of great places to eat and grab a drink around the stadium. When the Lions have a home game, the entire neighbourhood buzzes. And no matter if we win or lose, there’s always a celebration somewhere afterwards—it’s just about life and community.”
Here, matchdays are not contained within ninety minutes. They spill into the cafés, the beer gardens, the streets. To speak about 1860 Munich is also to speak about Giesing itself.
Days to remember
When Watson reflects on what stands out from his years as a supporter, he struggles to narrow it down. “Since I have so many great memories with the club, it’s hard for me to pick just one,” he admits. But he does recall the derbies. “All the derbies against the hated red neighbours from across the street. Back in the Bundesliga or a match between our amateur teams—you could always feel a special, electric atmosphere in the city for days beforehand.”
There was also the 2018 promotion, a moment that seemed to defy the decline of previous years. “Another highlight of my fan career was definitely the promotion from the Regionalliga to the 3. Liga in 2018. The whole season was like a single dream with many special away games in small villages somewhere in Bavaria. At the end, we had two incredibly exciting promotion playoff games against Saarbrücken, which were thrilling right up to the last minute.”
It was then that he experienced something he had imagined since childhood. “For the first time in my life, I got to run onto the sacred pitch at the Grünwalder Stadion, and after that, the entire Giesing district was literally ‘drunk dry’!”
A life’s purpose
Supporting 1860 Munich means living with contradiction: the pull of history against the push of the present, the joy of belonging against the disappointment of results. Yet for Watson, there is never doubt. “My fascination with 1860 has never stopped,” he says again, as if reminding himself. “Everything to do with the club has become a kind of life’s purpose for me.”
In Giesing, the stadium remains full. The streets remain alive. And for fans like Watson, 1860 Munich remains the centre of everything.
In the heart of Barcelona, steps away from Passeig de Gràcia and the iconic Casa Milà, Sir Victor Hotel offers a distinctive experience that blends contemporary design, cultural connection, and world-class hospitality.
As part of the Sircle Collection, Sir Victor reflects a commitment to integrating art, community, and thoughtful experiences, making it a standout destination for travellers and locals alike.
Van Martin, Marketing Manager for Sir Hotels in Spain, shares insights into what makes Sir Victor special. “Our goal is to create a warm, engaging atmosphere where every experience is memorable and deeply connected to Barcelona’s vibrant culture,” she explains.
With 91 beautifully designed rooms, a luxurious spa, a rooftop pool offering Mediterranean-inspired dining, and The Cover, a private members’ club, Sir Victor delivers more than a stay—it offers a gateway to the city’s energy and spirit.
Dining at Sir Victor is equally captivating. MR PORTER, the hotel’s chic steakhouse, combines refined dining with a lively lounge vibe, offering everything from rare cuts of steak to vegetarian dishes paired with inventive cocktails.
Meanwhile, The Rooftop provides breathtaking views of the city, complemented by fresh, locally inspired cuisine. “Whether it’s unwinding with cocktails or enjoying Tapas, Sir Victor captures the essence of Barcelona,” says Van.
Beyond its amenities, Sir Victor stands out by fostering connections to the city’s culture through curated events, art collections, and a commitment to sustainability. Van observes, “Travelers today seek real, local experiences and personalized stays. We respond by offering authentic interactions and wellness-focused options that resonate with guests on a deeper level.”
With its unbeatable location and curated Sir City Guide, Sir Victor ensures guests are well-equipped to explore the best of Barcelona, from iconic landmarks to hidden gems. Whether visiting for the vibrant local culture or a tranquil retreat, Sir Victor promises an experience that feels both luxurious and uniquely tied to the city.
Guests can expect a blend of luxury, culture, and contemporary design that reflects the values of the Sircle Collection. The rooms are bright and inviting, with some featuring balconies that offer stunning views of the city.
You can also relax at The Rooftop pool, rejuvenate in the spa, or enjoy delicious meals at the lively restaurant. Our goal is to create a warm, engaging atmosphere where every experience is memorable and deeply connected to Barcelona’s vibrant culture.
The Atlantic Dispatch sat down with Van Martin to learn more about what makes Sir Victor Hotel in Barcelona so unique, its dynamic cuisine, the changing trends in the hospitality industry, and why it should be on your list of places to stay in 2025.
“People are looking for real, local experiences more than ever. They want to connect with the place they’re visiting in meaningful ways and have more personalised stays.“
Born and raised in the picturesque seaside town of San Felice Circeo, Giulia Puspi’s story is one of passion, family, and big dreams. Although she still calls her small hometown home, she often feels its limits as she dreams of pursuing grander aspirations. Balancing work, family, and her love of football, Giulia has carved out a unique space for herself as a digital creator and Juventus supporter.
In this exclusive interview, Giulia shares how her father’s unwavering love for Juventus ignited her own lifelong passion for “la Vecchia Signora.” From cherished memories of Juventus’ nine years of dominance to her deep admiration for Alessandro Del Piero—whom she reverently describes as “not just a Juventus player, but Juventus itself”—her devotion to the club runs deep.
Giulia also opens up about her love for vintage fashion, particularly the iconic 2000 Juventus jersey, and how she incorporates Juve-inspired pieces into her casual, everyday style. For her, attending matches at the Juventus Stadium is more than just a sporting event; it’s a profound experience of belonging. She describes the joy of singing the anthem with fellow fans and the sense of home the stadium provides.
A passionate advocate for sharing her love of football with others, Giulia reveals how she has been connecting with fans for the past year, finding fulfillment in the camaraderie and support within the Juventus community. Outside of football, her days are filled with family, travel, and time spent at the gym—simple joys that ground her.
As a true optimist, Giulia reflects on the current challenges facing Juventus and her hopes for brighter days ahead. She remains steadfast in her belief in the team and its leadership, saying, “I just hope this darkness leads us to a brilliant light.”
Join us as we delve into Giulia’s journey, her unwavering support for Juventus, and her vision for the future, both as a digital creator and a devoted fan.
I was born and raised in a small seaside town, San Felice Circeo, where I still live today. However, I feel that this town is too small to hold the big dreams I have. Let’s just say I feel a bit confined. My life here revolves around work and family.
My love for football—and, by extension, for Juventus—comes from my father. A die-hard Juve fan and passionate supporter of “la Vecchia Signora,” he passed on all his enthusiasm to me from a young age.
My favorite memories are from the nine years of dominance Juventus enjoyed. I miss those times. I miss winning, the hunger Juventus had, and especially the fear we inspired in opposing teams whenever they faced the Bianconeri.
It’s never something I take for granted, and I love shouting it to the world: Alessandro Del Piero, to me, isn’t just a Juventus player—he is Juventus.
I love vintage, so my favorite jersey is from 2000. Typically, I like dressing casually, always wearing something Juve-related. I often pair it with a fuchsia cap and a scarf.
The stadium experience is truly beautiful. Beyond the stadium’s undeniable beauty, you genuinely feel at home when you step inside. My favorite moment is, without a doubt, when we all sing the anthem together.
I’ve been sharing my passion for just over a year now, and I love transmitting it to others—it’s a passion that isn’t mine alone. I enjoy the connection with other fans and especially appreciate their support.
I also love traveling and spending time with my nieces and nephews. A typical day for me, when I’m not at the stadium, is filled with work, family, and the gym.
I was very happy when he arrived, and I truly believed he could do well for Juve. To this day, I still can’t give a definitive opinion. I just hope this darkness leads us to a brilliant light. I still believe in the coach and hope he can find his balance here in Turin.
JU
In Focus
“Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads.” — Henry David Thoreau
In life, they say it’s not about the destination, but the journey. Every now and then, if you’re fortunate, both fall perfectly into place.
We left under clear skies, the kind of blue that feels rare even in a Scottish summer. The journey to Jedburgh should have taken around an hour and a half, but there was no urgency to get there. Not when the coast was calling.
A detour to North Berwick led us to The Drift, perched above the shoreline with sweeping views across the Firth of Forth. Fresh, thoughtful food, strong coffee, and a horizon that seems to go on forever. It set the tone for everything that followed.
From there, the landscape began to shift. The coastline gave way to the quiet grandeur of the Scottish Borders. Roads narrowed, towns appeared and disappeared. Passing through places like Kelso and Melrose, you’re reminded how much of this region remains quietly undiscovered, rolling farmland, historic stone buildings, and a sense of space that feels increasingly rare.
By the time we reached Jedburgh, the light had softened into that golden late-afternoon hue. There was just enough time for a fleeting visit to Mary Queen of Scots’ House, or at least, an attempt. Closing at 3 pm, we managed little more than a glimpse, a promise to return properly next time. Instead, we wandered the town, picked up coffee, and gathered supplies for the evening ahead.
Because the real destination was still waiting.
The House in the Hill
The House in the Hill lies just beyond Jedburgh, on Townfoot Hill, where the road begins to fall away from everything else. As you arrive, the house reveals itself in full, set alone in open countryside, defined by its quiet and its distance from the world below.
Surrounded by vast, undulating hills, it carries a kind of quiet drama, something almost literary in its isolation. You half expect the wind to carry echoes of another time, as if you’ve stepped into a scene from Wuthering Heights. And yet, inside, it’s unmistakably modern.
The house balances rustic charm with contemporary comfort. Two spacious bedrooms offer understated luxury, while open-plan living spaces invite you to slow down completely. There’s a beautifully designed kitchen fitted with modern appliances, a soft, inviting lounge with a smart TV, and thoughtful touches throughout, including an inviting welcome pack filled with delicious local produce, slippers, dressing gowns, and beds you sink into without resistance.
The property is architect-designed and carefully positioned. Large areas of glazing face outward, framing the surrounding hills so that the landscape remains constant, wherever you are in the house. It operates off-grid, powered by renewable energy and supplied by natural spring water, but these elements are integrated quietly into the experience.
Inside, the house is centred around an open-plan living space that brings together the kitchen, dining, and seating areas with ease. The kitchen is fully equipped and intended to be used properly, whether for a quick meal or something more considered.
Two bedrooms sit on either side of the main space, each positioned to take in the surrounding views. The bathrooms deserve their own mention: open, airy showers that feel indulgent without excess, and a bathtub perfectly placed for long, quiet evenings, as well as a selection of carefully chosen body products. Robes, slippers, and soft, well-placed lighting complete the space, giving it a quiet sense of comfort throughout.
A suspended log burner anchors the living space, while outside, the house opens itself fully to its surroundings. A wood-fired hot tub sits low against the hillside, positioned so that nothing interrupts the view, just open land stretching out in every direction. Nearby, a rooftop seating area has been carefully designed for long, unhurried evenings or slow mornings, whether that’s dinner under a clear Borders sky or coffee as the light returns across the hills.
There’s also a barbecue and outdoor dining space, well set up for warmer months. We left it untouched this time, opting instead for something simpler.
We cooked, opened a bottle of wine, and said cheers to an unforgettable evening.
The sense of seclusion deepens as the light fades. Sitting in the warmth of the hot tub, with no sound beyond the immediate landscape, it becomes easy to lose track of time altogether. It’s a rare kind of stillness. I can’t remember the last time I felt as content as I did in that moment. As the old line goes, heaven isn’t somewhere distant; it’s as much beneath our feet as it is above us.
And then, the sky.
The stars appear in sharp detail, scattered densely across the sky in a way that feels almost unfamiliar. It’s the kind of clarity that makes you look up and stay there. On nights like this, the Northern Lights are not out of the question, another reminder of just how removed this place is from the usual pace and noise of everyday life.
The Beauty of the Borders
What makes The House in the Hill so special isn’t just the property itself, but where it sits.
The Scottish Borders have a quiet confidence—less dramatic than the Highlands perhaps, but no less compelling. It’s a region built for those willing to explore slowly. Historic towns, winding roads, open landscapes, and a deep sense of history are layered into the land.
Jedburgh, with its abbey ruins and royal connections, is just the beginning. And as we discovered, even a missed visit can become part of the story, a reason to return. Because places like this aren’t just visited once. They stay with you forever.
Our stay at House in the Hill came recommended by Make It Scotland, a travel platform dedicated entirely to uncovering the best of the country. Designed to simplify trip planning, it brings together places to stay, eat and explore, alongside local guides and seasonal inspiration that offer a more authentic way to experience Scotland.
You can find out more information about The House in the Hill by clicking here. To follow them on Instagram, click here
You can learn more about Make it Scotland by clicking here. You can also follow them on Instagram here.
You can visit Drift Cafe by clicking here. You can follow them on Instagram here.
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Words and Images: tonpotdemoutarde
In Saint-Étienne, football is rarely a solitary love. It is handed down.
For photographer tonpotdemoutarde, supporting AS Saint-Étienne was never a decision to be made — it was part of the fabric of family life. His grandfather stood on the terraces. His father followed. At six years old, he was taken to the stadium for the first time, walking into what locals don’t simply call a ground, but Le Chaudron, the cauldron.
My grandfather was a fan, my father was a fan, and he took me to the stadium when I was six years old. It was only natural for me to support Saint-Étienne. I lived in an apartment where you could hear the chants on matchdays. Every time, it amazed me. I didn’t care about the results — I just wanted to see Les Verts.
More than just a stadium, it’s Le Chaudron. You have to come and hear the two ends singing, to feel the fervour, to feel a city in unison — to truly feel a wave pushing the players from start to finish.
One of my favourite memories is ASSE vs Châteauroux in 2004. If we won, we would be Division 2 champions. The stadium was full, with a tifo stretching across the entire ground. We won thanks to a goal from Bridonneau, a defender, who scored with a scissor kick right at the end of the match. I have never heard such a deafening noise in a stadium.
I would also mention the first European matches I attended, the 100th derby victory in Lyon, and the last promotion back to Ligue 1. But more than anything, the matches spent with friends remain my greatest memories.
What makes the club special is that, despite the passing years and the results, the passion has never changed. The loyalty remains. Personally, I haven’t seen many trophies or European nights, and yet the passion is still intact.
It is also a club people can identify with — a club that has remained popular and proud of its city’s past.
And in Sainté, no one cares where you come from, how much you earn, or who you are. If you’re a fan, you’re family.
Words and Images: tonpotdemoutarde
All words and images by Guirec Munier
Guirec Munier made his way to Tynecastle Stadium, home of Heart of Midlothian, to witness a club who are in the midst of a dreamlike campaign, which could see them break the Old Firm monopoloy which has existed in Scotland for over 40 years.
Usually, we don’t choose our family — but we do choose our friends. In the case of Hearts, the two are one: inseparable, intertwined, beating with the same pulse beneath maroon scarves and winter skies.
As I stepped off Lothian Bus number 25 and walked up Gorgie Road towards Tynecastle Park, something unspeakable — almost unfathomable — hung in the air, as though the bricks themselves carried memory. A quiet sense of fraternity was palpable — not loud or ostentatious, but steady and enveloping, like a familiar embrace. The warmth of the Scottish people isn’t an empty phrase or a tired cliché for visitors; it reveals itself in passing words and knowing smiles — and goes beyond politeness to become something closer to communion.
To be honest, I hadn’t done my homework before heading to Hearts v Livingston. I had no idea that Heart of Midlothian is the largest fan-owned club in the UK. The atmosphere around the stadium suddenly made perfect sense, as if the stands themselves were breathing with collective ownership and pride. Hearts is a family affair — not metaphorically, but structurally, spiritually, almost genetically. And family is sacred.
Transgenerational, and with a strong feminine presence, the crowd of the Gorgie Boys resembles a photograph taken at a family reunion — slightly chaotic, deeply affectionate, wonderfully ordinary. Men, women, and children gather not merely to watch a match, but to share a slice of life, to pass down traditions, to stitch memory into the fabric of a Saturday afternoon.
All words and images by Guirec Munier
All words and images by Guirec Munier
First Sight
Standing on the footbridge spanning the railway line that separates Harrington Street from Cleethorpes Beach, my gaze falls upon a stadium nestled in a sea of terraced houses.
Love at first sight.
The exact representation of what a stadium is — or should be. A ground deeply rooted in its community, one that hasn’t sacrificed its soul on the altar of prosperity.
Blundell Park.
Grey Skies, Haddock and Anticipation
In the windswept streets of Cleethorpes, the colour of the sky seems to have rubbed off on everyday life. Grey. On this day, only Grimsby Town appear capable of brightening reality.
As the minutes tick by, Mariners supporters converge on McDonald’s on Grimsby Road and the local chippy, The Gr8 White Fish. Cleethorpes obliges: haddock and chips are on the menu.
Sated — my thumb and forefinger still greasy — I take Blundell Avenue back towards Harrington Street. There, Bradford City fans disembark from coaches specially chartered for the match and head towards the second impasse leading to the away section. In front of the wooden façade of the Main Stand, sandwiched between back gardens, four turnstiles reserved for Bantams supporters sit beneath coils of barbed wire.
From the outside, Blundell Park seems frozen in the pre-Hillsborough 1980s. From the inside as well.
An architectural gem to be preserved for some; the ugliest stadium in Britain for others. Blundell Park divides opinion.
“The Ugliest Stadium in the World”?
How can a stadium arouse such contrasting feelings?
In 2016, talkSPORT put the cat among the pigeons when it published a ranking of the worst and ugliest football stadiums in the world. Blundell Park placed a dismal second.
According to GiveMeSport, with stands of completely different sizes and lengths, the ground looks skewed and poorly conceived. In desperate need of refurbishment, with parts appearing to crumble, it is deemed unattractive and unfit for modern football. Considering it opened in 1899, they argue, it is remarkable that it is still standing.
In short, talkSPORT and GiveMeSport advocate standardisation and endorse the quiet sterility of modern football.
Character Over Comfort
Standardisation and sterility? Nothing of the sort.
Mighty Mariner, Grimsby Town’s mascot, greets me with open arms. The Main Stand — a vestige of football’s early days and the oldest stand in the English Football League — brims with character. Admittedly, the view is restricted by timber framing and wooden pillars, but what pleasure there is in sitting on a folding wooden seat on a cool spring afternoon.
To the left stands the Osmond Stand, financed by proceeds from the 1939 FA Cup semi-final at Old Trafford — an attendance record that still stands. Its L-shape, formed at the junction with the Main Stand, reflects periods of sporting success: promotions to the First Division in 1902 and 1929, and that famous 1939 cup run.
To the right, the Pontoon Stand was also built with funds raised by Grimsby Town supporters. The Findus Stand, financed by the frozen food brand that sponsored the club between 1979 and 1984 and served as a major local employer, offers a panoramic view of the Humber Estuary, where trawlers once returned laden with cod, pollock and haddock.
Even the floodlights tell a story. Standing 128 feet tall, these second-hand pylons illuminated Wolves’ first floodlit match at Molineux in 1953.
“It was the floodlights that made football magical for me — it turned football into theatre,” recalled a seven-year-old boy who attended that evening. His name was George Best.
Every element of Blundell Park carries its own narrative. Together, they crystallise the essence of the town.
A Town and Its Image
The town of Grimsby — and the bleak image that clings to it — mirrors the trajectory of its storied stadium.
The former largest fishing port in the world has indeed endured economic decline. But should we draw a line through its past to improve its present and future?
Like talkSPORT, one could imagine a tabloid peremptorily declaring that Grimsby is unfit for the modern world, that its horizons would be clearer after the arrival of bulldozers, or that Parliament should consider re-enacting the New Poor Law of 1834 for this corner of Lincolnshire.
But progress without memory is amnesia.
What Is Profit Worth?
If Grimsby Town ever decide to turn its back on more than 125 years of history by building a stadium resembling a shopping centre, the soul of the local community will have been traded for a vast car park, an unobstructed view, and shorter queues for overpriced pints.
It is not all profit, for fuck’s sake.
Blundell Park opened in the same week in September 1899 as White Hart Lane, Highfield Road, Hillsborough and Fratton Park.
Will it share the fate of the first two?
All words and images by Guirec Munier
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All words and images: Luca Miscioscia
Luca arrived in Florence for the Fiorentina–Pisa derby, but not for the match alone.
He came to walk the streets of the Renaissance, to sit at a traditional Florentine table, and to feel how a city of art responds when football becomes urgent. Because in Tuscany, rivalries stretch beyond ninety minutes, they are written into bread without salt, into civic pride, into history itself.
This is his experience of Florence: the food, the view, and a derby decided by fine margins.
We’re in Tuscany, central Italy, in the legendary city of Florence, cradle of the Renaissance, a city of art and history that welcomes millions of visitors from all over the world each year.
The Ponte Vecchio stretches across the Arno like a symbol of permanence. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore dominates the skyline. The Uffizi Gallery holds centuries of artistic genius. These are just some of the treasures you find here.
From Piazzale Michelangelo, in the upper part of the city, Florence opens up completely. You can admire it in full — rooftops, domes, towers, and the Arno River dividing the city into two. It’s a view that reminds you how much history lives within these streets.
But Florence is not only art and architecture.
It’s also food.
At the Table
I visited Trattoria Da Mario, a traditional Florentine restaurant where the atmosphere feels unchanged by time.
I started with ribollita.
Florentine ribollita is a rustic dish of peasant origin — a “lean soup” made with vegetables, legumes, and stale bread. It comes from a tradition of wasting nothing, especially bread. Originally, peasant women prepared large quantities of vegetable and bean soup, often on Fridays, the traditional day of fasting. The following day, the leftovers were “reboiled” in a pot with a drizzle of olive oil — hence the name ribollita.
Even the bread tells a story. Stale bread, known as pane sciocco, became popular in Florence when Pisa held a monopoly on salt. In response, Florentines began making unsalted bread — still called “sciocco” or “raffermo” today.
Even in cuisine, the Florence–Pisa rivalry runs deep.
Next came the rib-eye steak — locally called ciccia. Rare and delicious, just as it’s prepared in Florence. Paired with baked potatoes and a glass of red wine, it was simple, direct, and deeply satisfying.
To finish, I had a typical Florentine dessert: cantucci col Vin Santo, dry almond biscuits dipped into Vin Santo, the Tuscan dessert wine made from carefully selected grapes. It’s not just dessert; it’s ritual.
Before leaving, I stepped into the kitchen to watch the chefs at work. A memorable moment in a traditional restaurant where the air carries the scent of history and regional identity.
If you’re passing through Florence, this is a place worth seeking out.
The Derby
And then, football.
Not just any match — Fiorentina–Pisa. A true Tuscan derby between two historic cities.
This season, Fiorentina has struggled and sits in the relegation zone, as does Pisa, who returned to the top flight after 34 years away. The stakes felt heavy before kickoff.
I was seated in the Maratona stand, opposite the press box. Due to maintenance work, the Curva Fiesole has temporarily relocated to the Curva Ferrovia, but the intensity has not diminished.
For this match, maximum support was required — and the fans delivered, pushing the team forward without pause.
Fiorentina won 1–0.
It wasn’t just three points. It was a derby victory. A step toward survival. In Florence, the idea of relegation to Serie B is not something anyone wants to contemplate.
The opening choreography, with red and white flags — the historic colours of Florence — was striking. Simple, powerful, popular. Working-class in spirit.
The visiting ultras were absent due to the limited away allocation of 300 tickets and the requirement of a fan card — a system the Pisa ultras have consistently opposed.
Florence offers beauty, history, and culinary tradition in abundance. The city is well connected by train to other destinations such as Bologna, making it easy to explore the wider region.
But if you want to understand Florence beyond the postcards, combine the art and the food with a match at the Artemio Franchi.
In Tuscany, culture and football are never separate. They live side by side — in the streets, at the table, and in the stands.
All words and images: Luca Miscioscia
Words and Images: Joey Corlett
From Middle of the Road to Champions
Watching on from Europe in May 2025, as Club Atlético Platense finished sixth in Group B of the Apertura season, it wouldn’t have been shocking to miss the news in Argentina — let alone anywhere else in the world.
They ended the group stage with a record of six wins, five draws and five losses — about as middle of the road as you can get — yet into the knockout rounds they went all the same. By finishing lower in the table, they were burdened with the pressure of playing away from home, without the support of their fans in the stands.
Despite that disadvantage, they produced a remarkable run, defeating three of Los Cinco Grandes — Racing Club, River Plate and San Lorenzo — all in their own backyards, to set up a historic opportunity: their first-ever Primera División title.
They headed north to the province of Santiago del Estero for the showpiece final against Huracán. In a nail-biting contest, they snatched a 1–0 victory to become Apertura champions.
A Decade of Transformation
Just ten years earlier, Platense had been battling in the metropolitan third tier of Argentine football and only returned to the top division in 2021.
Seeing them put together such a grand run and celebrate with an open-top bus parade through their barrio felt incredibly heartwarming in this era of predictable winners and expectation-driven modern football.
However, fast forward a few months, and I arrived in Buenos Aires. Their title-winning managerial duo had left the club, and they sat bottom of Group B in the Clausura campaign with just two wins in fifteen games.
With the league phase of the Clausura coming to an end — and hopes of reaching the knockouts long gone — I made it a priority to visit the Estadio Ciudad de Vicente López.
One Last Chance
The fixture list offered one final opportunity: the closing match of their dismal run, with Gimnasia de La Plata visiting. Gimnasia themselves weren’t certain of a knockout place, with five teams separated by just three points.
Linking up with Amos Murphy, we hopped into a taxi and headed north. Platense’s home ground is located in the neighbourhood of Florida, right on the northern border where the capital ends and the greater Buenos Aires province begins. Situated alongside one of the main motorways out of the city, we arrived quickly.
A Quieter Corner of Buenos Aires
It was immediately noticeable that this was a quieter, more residential part of town.
Wandering towards the ground, there was a calm atmosphere as we searched for refreshments. We stumbled upon a large group of fans preparing for the evening — trumpets in hand, drums resting at their feet. They were curious about where we were from, made sure we were okay getting tickets and warmly welcomed us. A brief but lovely encounter.
We grabbed refreshments from a corner shop called The Martini’s, draped in brown and white flags. With a busy grill out front and fans snacking on choripán, it did the job perfectly for us. Two cans of Schneider before kick-off.
Welcome to the Home of the Champions
Following the waves of fans over the bridge, we could hear the barra brava already in position. The beautiful musical noise spilled back out of the stadium — the perfect appetiser.
We collected our tickets from a classic little window in the wall, handing over pesos for two paper stubs slid back to us. A small ritual you don’t experience much anymore.
Passing through police and ID checks, the man tearing tickets smiled:
“Where are you guys from?”
When we answered, he ripped the tops of our tickets and simply said:
“Welcome.”
Two gringos were welcome in Platense.
Underneath the popular terrace, we looked out over the green turf. The advertising boards and scoreboard both displayed the message:
“Bienvenidos a la Casa del Campeón.”
(Welcome to the Home of the Champions.)
After a few rounds of chants, we tuned in more closely to the barra brava.
“Are they singing about calamari?”
Yes. Yes, they were.
El Calamar
Platense picked up their nickname back in 1908. Their pitch at the time was close to a river and prone to flooding. Uruguayan journalist Antonio Palacio Zino wrote that the team played its best matches on muddy fields:
“Are they going to play against Platense? In the rain and mud? Then we already know who will win! Platense, in the mud, are like squid in their ink!”
And so, they became El Calamar.
Sunset and Defeat
Despite relentless effort on the terraces — one fan in front of us spent the entire match perched atop the crush barrier, seemingly with calf muscles of steel — the match itself didn’t live up to its side of the bargain.
Both sides struggled for control, but Gimnasia capitalised on Platense’s mistakes. The home goalkeeper failed to claim a simple cross, and Manuel Panaro nodded home after just 20 minutes, setting the tone.
We were treated to one of the best sunsets of my month in the Argentine capital — a stunning backdrop in stark contrast to the lack of quality on the pitch.
The visitors added two more without reply.
As the third went in, right in front of us, one Platense fan turned, wincing, head in his hands:
“This team is horrible.”
Yet when the final whistle blew, contradictions defined the night. That same fan was singing his team off as:
“¡Campeón!”
From the Neighbourhood to the Continent
We watched as banners were taken down — perhaps for the last time as reigning champions — before heading out to finish the night with cervezas and milanesas in a local spot. The perfect way to round off a Monday night in Buenos Aires.
Thanks to their Apertura heroics, El Calamar will play Copa Libertadores football, with “Del Barrio al Continente” (From the Neighbourhood to the Continent) currently emblazoned across the stadium.
After a disastrous Clausura campaign, a fascinating South American adventure awaits.
For one final match, Platense were champions — and they took every second of that last opportunity to celebrate it.
If you get the chance, head north and experience this authentic slice of Buenos Aires football.
Words and Images: Joey Corlett
