Opinion
“Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads.” — Henry David Thoreau
In life, they say it’s not about the destination, but the journey. Every now and then, if you’re fortunate, both fall perfectly into place.
We left under clear skies, the kind of blue that feels rare even in a Scottish summer. The journey to Jedburgh should have taken around an hour and a half, but there was no urgency to get there. Not when the coast was calling.
A detour to North Berwick led us to The Drift, perched above the shoreline with sweeping views across the Firth of Forth. Fresh, thoughtful food, strong coffee, and a horizon that seems to go on forever. It set the tone for everything that followed.
From there, the landscape began to shift. The coastline gave way to the quiet grandeur of the Scottish Borders. Roads narrowed, towns appeared and disappeared. Passing through places like Kelso and Melrose, you’re reminded how much of this region remains quietly undiscovered, rolling farmland, historic stone buildings, and a sense of space that feels increasingly rare.
By the time we reached Jedburgh, the light had softened into that golden late-afternoon hue. There was just enough time for a fleeting visit to Mary Queen of Scots’ House, or at least, an attempt. Closing at 3 pm, we managed little more than a glimpse, a promise to return properly next time. Instead, we wandered the town, picked up coffee, and gathered supplies for the evening ahead.
Because the real destination was still waiting.
The House in the Hill
The House in the Hill lies just beyond Jedburgh, on Townfoot Hill, where the road begins to fall away from everything else. As you arrive, the house reveals itself in full, set alone in open countryside, defined by its quiet and its distance from the world below.
Surrounded by vast, undulating hills, it carries a kind of quiet drama, something almost literary in its isolation. You half expect the wind to carry echoes of another time, as if you’ve stepped into a scene from Wuthering Heights. And yet, inside, it’s unmistakably modern.
The house balances rustic charm with contemporary comfort. Two spacious bedrooms offer understated luxury, while open-plan living spaces invite you to slow down completely. There’s a beautifully designed kitchen fitted with modern appliances, a soft, inviting lounge with a smart TV, and thoughtful touches throughout, including an inviting welcome pack filled with delicious local produce, slippers, dressing gowns, and beds you sink into without resistance.
The property is architect-designed and carefully positioned. Large areas of glazing face outward, framing the surrounding hills so that the landscape remains constant, wherever you are in the house. It operates off-grid, powered by renewable energy and supplied by natural spring water, but these elements are integrated quietly into the experience.
Inside, the house is centred around an open-plan living space that brings together the kitchen, dining, and seating areas with ease. The kitchen is fully equipped and intended to be used properly, whether for a quick meal or something more considered.
Two bedrooms sit on either side of the main space, each positioned to take in the surrounding views. The bathrooms deserve their own mention: open, airy showers that feel indulgent without excess, and a bathtub perfectly placed for long, quiet evenings, as well as a selection of carefully chosen body products. Robes, slippers, and soft, well-placed lighting complete the space, giving it a quiet sense of comfort throughout.
A suspended log burner anchors the living space, while outside, the house opens itself fully to its surroundings. A wood-fired hot tub sits low against the hillside, positioned so that nothing interrupts the view, just open land stretching out in every direction. Nearby, a rooftop seating area has been carefully designed for long, unhurried evenings or slow mornings, whether that’s dinner under a clear Borders sky or coffee as the light returns across the hills.
There’s also a barbecue and outdoor dining space, well set up for warmer months. We left it untouched this time, opting instead for something simpler.
We cooked, opened a bottle of wine, and said cheers to an unforgettable evening.
The sense of seclusion deepens as the light fades. Sitting in the warmth of the hot tub, with no sound beyond the immediate landscape, it becomes easy to lose track of time altogether. It’s a rare kind of stillness. I can’t remember the last time I felt as content as I did in that moment. As the old line goes, heaven isn’t somewhere distant; it’s as much beneath our feet as it is above us.
And then, the sky.
The stars appear in sharp detail, scattered densely across the sky in a way that feels almost unfamiliar. It’s the kind of clarity that makes you look up and stay there. On nights like this, the Northern Lights are not out of the question, another reminder of just how removed this place is from the usual pace and noise of everyday life.
The Beauty of the Borders
What makes The House in the Hill so special isn’t just the property itself, but where it sits.
The Scottish Borders have a quiet confidence—less dramatic than the Highlands perhaps, but no less compelling. It’s a region built for those willing to explore slowly. Historic towns, winding roads, open landscapes, and a deep sense of history are layered into the land.
Jedburgh, with its abbey ruins and royal connections, is just the beginning. And as we discovered, even a missed visit can become part of the story, a reason to return. Because places like this aren’t just visited once. They stay with you forever.
Our stay at House in the Hill came recommended by Make It Scotland, a travel platform dedicated entirely to uncovering the best of the country. Designed to simplify trip planning, it brings together places to stay, eat and explore, alongside local guides and seasonal inspiration that offer a more authentic way to experience Scotland.
You can find out more information about The House in the Hill by clicking here. To follow them on Instagram, click here
You can learn more about Make it Scotland by clicking here. You can also follow them on Instagram here.
You can visit Drift Cafe by clicking here. You can follow them on Instagram here.
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Words and Images: tonpotdemoutarde
In Saint-Étienne, football is rarely a solitary love. It is handed down.
For photographer tonpotdemoutarde, supporting AS Saint-Étienne was never a decision to be made — it was part of the fabric of family life. His grandfather stood on the terraces. His father followed. At six years old, he was taken to the stadium for the first time, walking into what locals don’t simply call a ground, but Le Chaudron, the cauldron.
My grandfather was a fan, my father was a fan, and he took me to the stadium when I was six years old. It was only natural for me to support Saint-Étienne. I lived in an apartment where you could hear the chants on matchdays. Every time, it amazed me. I didn’t care about the results — I just wanted to see Les Verts.
More than just a stadium, it’s Le Chaudron. You have to come and hear the two ends singing, to feel the fervour, to feel a city in unison — to truly feel a wave pushing the players from start to finish.
One of my favourite memories is ASSE vs Châteauroux in 2004. If we won, we would be Division 2 champions. The stadium was full, with a tifo stretching across the entire ground. We won thanks to a goal from Bridonneau, a defender, who scored with a scissor kick right at the end of the match. I have never heard such a deafening noise in a stadium.
I would also mention the first European matches I attended, the 100th derby victory in Lyon, and the last promotion back to Ligue 1. But more than anything, the matches spent with friends remain my greatest memories.
What makes the club special is that, despite the passing years and the results, the passion has never changed. The loyalty remains. Personally, I haven’t seen many trophies or European nights, and yet the passion is still intact.
It is also a club people can identify with — a club that has remained popular and proud of its city’s past.
And in Sainté, no one cares where you come from, how much you earn, or who you are. If you’re a fan, you’re family.
Words and Images: tonpotdemoutarde
All words and images by Guirec Munier
Guirec Munier made his way to Tynecastle Stadium, home of Heart of Midlothian, to witness a club who are in the midst of a dreamlike campaign, which could see them break the Old Firm monopoloy which has existed in Scotland for over 40 years.
Usually, we don’t choose our family — but we do choose our friends. In the case of Hearts, the two are one: inseparable, intertwined, beating with the same pulse beneath maroon scarves and winter skies.
As I stepped off Lothian Bus number 25 and walked up Gorgie Road towards Tynecastle Park, something unspeakable — almost unfathomable — hung in the air, as though the bricks themselves carried memory. A quiet sense of fraternity was palpable — not loud or ostentatious, but steady and enveloping, like a familiar embrace. The warmth of the Scottish people isn’t an empty phrase or a tired cliché for visitors; it reveals itself in passing words and knowing smiles — and goes beyond politeness to become something closer to communion.
To be honest, I hadn’t done my homework before heading to Hearts v Livingston. I had no idea that Heart of Midlothian is the largest fan-owned club in the UK. The atmosphere around the stadium suddenly made perfect sense, as if the stands themselves were breathing with collective ownership and pride. Hearts is a family affair — not metaphorically, but structurally, spiritually, almost genetically. And family is sacred.
Transgenerational, and with a strong feminine presence, the crowd of the Gorgie Boys resembles a photograph taken at a family reunion — slightly chaotic, deeply affectionate, wonderfully ordinary. Men, women, and children gather not merely to watch a match, but to share a slice of life, to pass down traditions, to stitch memory into the fabric of a Saturday afternoon.
All words and images by Guirec Munier
All words and images by Guirec Munier
First Sight
Standing on the footbridge spanning the railway line that separates Harrington Street from Cleethorpes Beach, my gaze falls upon a stadium nestled in a sea of terraced houses.
Love at first sight.
The exact representation of what a stadium is — or should be. A ground deeply rooted in its community, one that hasn’t sacrificed its soul on the altar of prosperity.
Blundell Park.
Grey Skies, Haddock and Anticipation
In the windswept streets of Cleethorpes, the colour of the sky seems to have rubbed off on everyday life. Grey. On this day, only Grimsby Town appear capable of brightening reality.
As the minutes tick by, Mariners supporters converge on McDonald’s on Grimsby Road and the local chippy, The Gr8 White Fish. Cleethorpes obliges: haddock and chips are on the menu.
Sated — my thumb and forefinger still greasy — I take Blundell Avenue back towards Harrington Street. There, Bradford City fans disembark from coaches specially chartered for the match and head towards the second impasse leading to the away section. In front of the wooden façade of the Main Stand, sandwiched between back gardens, four turnstiles reserved for Bantams supporters sit beneath coils of barbed wire.
From the outside, Blundell Park seems frozen in the pre-Hillsborough 1980s. From the inside as well.
An architectural gem to be preserved for some; the ugliest stadium in Britain for others. Blundell Park divides opinion.
“The Ugliest Stadium in the World”?
How can a stadium arouse such contrasting feelings?
In 2016, talkSPORT put the cat among the pigeons when it published a ranking of the worst and ugliest football stadiums in the world. Blundell Park placed a dismal second.
According to GiveMeSport, with stands of completely different sizes and lengths, the ground looks skewed and poorly conceived. In desperate need of refurbishment, with parts appearing to crumble, it is deemed unattractive and unfit for modern football. Considering it opened in 1899, they argue, it is remarkable that it is still standing.
In short, talkSPORT and GiveMeSport advocate standardisation and endorse the quiet sterility of modern football.
Character Over Comfort
Standardisation and sterility? Nothing of the sort.
Mighty Mariner, Grimsby Town’s mascot, greets me with open arms. The Main Stand — a vestige of football’s early days and the oldest stand in the English Football League — brims with character. Admittedly, the view is restricted by timber framing and wooden pillars, but what pleasure there is in sitting on a folding wooden seat on a cool spring afternoon.
To the left stands the Osmond Stand, financed by proceeds from the 1939 FA Cup semi-final at Old Trafford — an attendance record that still stands. Its L-shape, formed at the junction with the Main Stand, reflects periods of sporting success: promotions to the First Division in 1902 and 1929, and that famous 1939 cup run.
To the right, the Pontoon Stand was also built with funds raised by Grimsby Town supporters. The Findus Stand, financed by the frozen food brand that sponsored the club between 1979 and 1984 and served as a major local employer, offers a panoramic view of the Humber Estuary, where trawlers once returned laden with cod, pollock and haddock.
Even the floodlights tell a story. Standing 128 feet tall, these second-hand pylons illuminated Wolves’ first floodlit match at Molineux in 1953.
“It was the floodlights that made football magical for me — it turned football into theatre,” recalled a seven-year-old boy who attended that evening. His name was George Best.
Every element of Blundell Park carries its own narrative. Together, they crystallise the essence of the town.
A Town and Its Image
The town of Grimsby — and the bleak image that clings to it — mirrors the trajectory of its storied stadium.
The former largest fishing port in the world has indeed endured economic decline. But should we draw a line through its past to improve its present and future?
Like talkSPORT, one could imagine a tabloid peremptorily declaring that Grimsby is unfit for the modern world, that its horizons would be clearer after the arrival of bulldozers, or that Parliament should consider re-enacting the New Poor Law of 1834 for this corner of Lincolnshire.
But progress without memory is amnesia.
What Is Profit Worth?
If Grimsby Town ever decide to turn its back on more than 125 years of history by building a stadium resembling a shopping centre, the soul of the local community will have been traded for a vast car park, an unobstructed view, and shorter queues for overpriced pints.
It is not all profit, for fuck’s sake.
Blundell Park opened in the same week in September 1899 as White Hart Lane, Highfield Road, Hillsborough and Fratton Park.
Will it share the fate of the first two?
All words and images by Guirec Munier
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All words and images: Luca Miscioscia
Luca arrived in Florence for the Fiorentina–Pisa derby, but not for the match alone.
He came to walk the streets of the Renaissance, to sit at a traditional Florentine table, and to feel how a city of art responds when football becomes urgent. Because in Tuscany, rivalries stretch beyond ninety minutes, they are written into bread without salt, into civic pride, into history itself.
This is his experience of Florence: the food, the view, and a derby decided by fine margins.
We’re in Tuscany, central Italy, in the legendary city of Florence, cradle of the Renaissance, a city of art and history that welcomes millions of visitors from all over the world each year.
The Ponte Vecchio stretches across the Arno like a symbol of permanence. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore dominates the skyline. The Uffizi Gallery holds centuries of artistic genius. These are just some of the treasures you find here.
From Piazzale Michelangelo, in the upper part of the city, Florence opens up completely. You can admire it in full — rooftops, domes, towers, and the Arno River dividing the city into two. It’s a view that reminds you how much history lives within these streets.
But Florence is not only art and architecture.
It’s also food.
At the Table
I visited Trattoria Da Mario, a traditional Florentine restaurant where the atmosphere feels unchanged by time.
I started with ribollita.
Florentine ribollita is a rustic dish of peasant origin — a “lean soup” made with vegetables, legumes, and stale bread. It comes from a tradition of wasting nothing, especially bread. Originally, peasant women prepared large quantities of vegetable and bean soup, often on Fridays, the traditional day of fasting. The following day, the leftovers were “reboiled” in a pot with a drizzle of olive oil — hence the name ribollita.
Even the bread tells a story. Stale bread, known as pane sciocco, became popular in Florence when Pisa held a monopoly on salt. In response, Florentines began making unsalted bread — still called “sciocco” or “raffermo” today.
Even in cuisine, the Florence–Pisa rivalry runs deep.
Next came the rib-eye steak — locally called ciccia. Rare and delicious, just as it’s prepared in Florence. Paired with baked potatoes and a glass of red wine, it was simple, direct, and deeply satisfying.
To finish, I had a typical Florentine dessert: cantucci col Vin Santo, dry almond biscuits dipped into Vin Santo, the Tuscan dessert wine made from carefully selected grapes. It’s not just dessert; it’s ritual.
Before leaving, I stepped into the kitchen to watch the chefs at work. A memorable moment in a traditional restaurant where the air carries the scent of history and regional identity.
If you’re passing through Florence, this is a place worth seeking out.
The Derby
And then, football.
Not just any match — Fiorentina–Pisa. A true Tuscan derby between two historic cities.
This season, Fiorentina has struggled and sits in the relegation zone, as does Pisa, who returned to the top flight after 34 years away. The stakes felt heavy before kickoff.
I was seated in the Maratona stand, opposite the press box. Due to maintenance work, the Curva Fiesole has temporarily relocated to the Curva Ferrovia, but the intensity has not diminished.
For this match, maximum support was required — and the fans delivered, pushing the team forward without pause.
Fiorentina won 1–0.
It wasn’t just three points. It was a derby victory. A step toward survival. In Florence, the idea of relegation to Serie B is not something anyone wants to contemplate.
The opening choreography, with red and white flags — the historic colours of Florence — was striking. Simple, powerful, popular. Working-class in spirit.
The visiting ultras were absent due to the limited away allocation of 300 tickets and the requirement of a fan card — a system the Pisa ultras have consistently opposed.
Florence offers beauty, history, and culinary tradition in abundance. The city is well connected by train to other destinations such as Bologna, making it easy to explore the wider region.
But if you want to understand Florence beyond the postcards, combine the art and the food with a match at the Artemio Franchi.
In Tuscany, culture and football are never separate. They live side by side — in the streets, at the table, and in the stands.
All words and images: Luca Miscioscia
Words and Images: Joey Corlett
From Middle of the Road to Champions
Watching on from Europe in May 2025, as Club Atlético Platense finished sixth in Group B of the Apertura season, it wouldn’t have been shocking to miss the news in Argentina — let alone anywhere else in the world.
They ended the group stage with a record of six wins, five draws and five losses — about as middle of the road as you can get — yet into the knockout rounds they went all the same. By finishing lower in the table, they were burdened with the pressure of playing away from home, without the support of their fans in the stands.
Despite that disadvantage, they produced a remarkable run, defeating three of Los Cinco Grandes — Racing Club, River Plate and San Lorenzo — all in their own backyards, to set up a historic opportunity: their first-ever Primera División title.
They headed north to the province of Santiago del Estero for the showpiece final against Huracán. In a nail-biting contest, they snatched a 1–0 victory to become Apertura champions.
A Decade of Transformation
Just ten years earlier, Platense had been battling in the metropolitan third tier of Argentine football and only returned to the top division in 2021.
Seeing them put together such a grand run and celebrate with an open-top bus parade through their barrio felt incredibly heartwarming in this era of predictable winners and expectation-driven modern football.
However, fast forward a few months, and I arrived in Buenos Aires. Their title-winning managerial duo had left the club, and they sat bottom of Group B in the Clausura campaign with just two wins in fifteen games.
With the league phase of the Clausura coming to an end — and hopes of reaching the knockouts long gone — I made it a priority to visit the Estadio Ciudad de Vicente López.
One Last Chance
The fixture list offered one final opportunity: the closing match of their dismal run, with Gimnasia de La Plata visiting. Gimnasia themselves weren’t certain of a knockout place, with five teams separated by just three points.
Linking up with Amos Murphy, we hopped into a taxi and headed north. Platense’s home ground is located in the neighbourhood of Florida, right on the northern border where the capital ends and the greater Buenos Aires province begins. Situated alongside one of the main motorways out of the city, we arrived quickly.
A Quieter Corner of Buenos Aires
It was immediately noticeable that this was a quieter, more residential part of town.
Wandering towards the ground, there was a calm atmosphere as we searched for refreshments. We stumbled upon a large group of fans preparing for the evening — trumpets in hand, drums resting at their feet. They were curious about where we were from, made sure we were okay getting tickets and warmly welcomed us. A brief but lovely encounter.
We grabbed refreshments from a corner shop called The Martini’s, draped in brown and white flags. With a busy grill out front and fans snacking on choripán, it did the job perfectly for us. Two cans of Schneider before kick-off.
Welcome to the Home of the Champions
Following the waves of fans over the bridge, we could hear the barra brava already in position. The beautiful musical noise spilled back out of the stadium — the perfect appetiser.
We collected our tickets from a classic little window in the wall, handing over pesos for two paper stubs slid back to us. A small ritual you don’t experience much anymore.
Passing through police and ID checks, the man tearing tickets smiled:
“Where are you guys from?”
When we answered, he ripped the tops of our tickets and simply said:
“Welcome.”
Two gringos were welcome in Platense.
Underneath the popular terrace, we looked out over the green turf. The advertising boards and scoreboard both displayed the message:
“Bienvenidos a la Casa del Campeón.”
(Welcome to the Home of the Champions.)
After a few rounds of chants, we tuned in more closely to the barra brava.
“Are they singing about calamari?”
Yes. Yes, they were.
El Calamar
Platense picked up their nickname back in 1908. Their pitch at the time was close to a river and prone to flooding. Uruguayan journalist Antonio Palacio Zino wrote that the team played its best matches on muddy fields:
“Are they going to play against Platense? In the rain and mud? Then we already know who will win! Platense, in the mud, are like squid in their ink!”
And so, they became El Calamar.
Sunset and Defeat
Despite relentless effort on the terraces — one fan in front of us spent the entire match perched atop the crush barrier, seemingly with calf muscles of steel — the match itself didn’t live up to its side of the bargain.
Both sides struggled for control, but Gimnasia capitalised on Platense’s mistakes. The home goalkeeper failed to claim a simple cross, and Manuel Panaro nodded home after just 20 minutes, setting the tone.
We were treated to one of the best sunsets of my month in the Argentine capital — a stunning backdrop in stark contrast to the lack of quality on the pitch.
The visitors added two more without reply.
As the third went in, right in front of us, one Platense fan turned, wincing, head in his hands:
“This team is horrible.”
Yet when the final whistle blew, contradictions defined the night. That same fan was singing his team off as:
“¡Campeón!”
From the Neighbourhood to the Continent
We watched as banners were taken down — perhaps for the last time as reigning champions — before heading out to finish the night with cervezas and milanesas in a local spot. The perfect way to round off a Monday night in Buenos Aires.
Thanks to their Apertura heroics, El Calamar will play Copa Libertadores football, with “Del Barrio al Continente” (From the Neighbourhood to the Continent) currently emblazoned across the stadium.
After a disastrous Clausura campaign, a fascinating South American adventure awaits.
For one final match, Platense were champions — and they took every second of that last opportunity to celebrate it.
If you get the chance, head north and experience this authentic slice of Buenos Aires football.
Words and Images: Joey Corlett
